96 SILICONES
Table 5: Analysis of moisturiser Property
Viscosity (cps)* pH
Appearance
Stability RT/45C Feel
Compatibility Conclusion
FC368 10,000
6.23
White Cream Stable/stable Very Good Good
Very Good
*Brookfield Synchro-Lectric Viscometer LVF Spindle #4, 12 rpm, at 25 °C
substantive to skin. This is due to the fact that the skin has a net negative charge because of the oxidised sulfur containing amino acids. In this case we replaced the non-ionic. The formulation is shown in Table 4. Table 5 shows the analytical data on
formulation FC368. This formulation also contained the additives found to be effective in the non-ionic formulation to make a truly multifunctional product.
Sensory feel Table 6 shows the sensory evaluation of all the formulations tested. The sensory evaluation for all formulations is presented in graphic form in Figure 2.
Conclusion
Alkyl silicones can be oil soluble, and that these silicones alter the oil air or oil water interface, lowering surface tension and forming self- assembling units has been known for many years.8,9
The fact that not just oils, but emulsifiers can alter sensory properties of cosmetic products has likewise been known for many years.5,6 Alkyl silicones added to oils in which they
are soluble and will form gels when cooled has also been known since 2007.10
It is now understood that other surface active polymers notably alkyl silicones are able to alter sensory properties of oils, just like emulsifiers (Wiechers) and oil selection (Herman). The addition of a variety of raw materials at low concentrations will potentially have a large effect upon the aesthetics of the finished formulation. These changes are achieved by altering the physical properties of the surface. The differences are many times not immediately predictable since there are many interactions between raw materials in the non-modified formulation that will change when a surface-active additive is included in the formulation. Viscosity, rheology, surface tension, wetting and solubility all can change with the minimally disruptive approach. The formulator is encouraged to try different additives to the oil phase, water phase or both to
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Table 6: Sensory Feel Evaluation of FC 367 Series and FC368 Sensory
Parameters*
Before Absorption: wetness
spreadability no tackiness absorbency
After Absorption: gloss
film residue no greasiness silkiness
no tackiness softness Total
*1 ~ 10, 10 is the best FC367 7
8.5 7 5
5 6
8.5 5 6
6.5 64.5 FC367A FC367B FC367C FC367D FC368
8.3 9
8.5 8
7.5 7.5 9.2 9.0 9.0 9.0
85.0
8 9
8.5 7.5
7.5 7.0 9.2 8.5 8.5 9.0
82.7
8 9
8.5 7.5
7
7.5 9.2 8.6 8.5 9.2
83.0
8 9
8.5 8
7.5 7.5 9.2 8.8 8.8 8.8
84.1 9
9.5 9.2 9.3
8
8.5 9.5 9.3 9.2 9.5 91
FC368 FC367 D FC367 C FC367 B FC367 A Control 50.0 55.0 60.0 65.0 70.0 75.0 80.0 85.0 90.0 95.0 Total Sensory Score Figure 2: Sensory modification (all formulations).
understand the effect of an ingredient added in low concentrations to the final product. It will not only provide outstanding formulations; it will be able to be done more rapidly as the effect of additives becomes better known.
PC
References 1 O’Lenick T, Zhang D. Developing minimally disruptive formulations, Personal Care Magazine 2015; 8(4): 57-59.
2 O’Lenick T. Household and Personal Care Today 2016; 11(2).
3
https://tinyurl.com/y79xan37 4 Herman S:
https://www.skininc.com/ skinscience /physiology/
12605626.html
5 Wiechers J, Taelman M-C, Wortel V, Verboom C, Dederen C. Emollients and Emulsifiers Exert
their Sensory Impact in Different phases of the Sensory Evaluation process but How Does One Demonstrate the Absence of such an Influence? IFSCC Magazine 2002; 5(2):99-105
6 Chandler M. The importance of sensory in topical pharmaceutical products, Chimica Oggi - Chemistry Today 2013; 31(5)
7
http://www.brookfield.nl/fileadmin/assets- brookfield/documents/handleidingen/Analoog _manual.pdf
8 O’Lenick T. Comparatively Speaking Surfactant vs. Silicone Surfactant October 2008.
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulatin g/function/surfactant/
8815207.html
9
https://tinyurl.com/y8wmg6y6 10 O’Lenick Kevin. U.S. Patent 7,875,263 entitled Polymeric Structures Gels, issued Jan. 2011, filed Feb 2007.
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