SILICONES 95 Table 2: Analysis of Moisturiser Property
Viscosity (cps)* pH
Stability RT/ 45C Stable/
Feel
Compatibility Conclusion
FC367 Control
47,000 6.23
FC367A ethyl methicone
40,000 6.19
FC367B Polysilicone 11
44,000 6.26
FC367C PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG- Dimethicone
45,000 6.20
FC367D Trisiloxy silicate
410,000 6.20
Appearance White Cream White Cream White Cream White Cream WhiteCream stable Stable/ stable Stable/ stable Stable/ stable Stable/ stable Stable/
Good Good Good
Table 3: Sensory Evaluation Sensory
Parameters*
Before Absorption: Wetness
spreadability no tackiness absorbency
After Absorption: gloss
film residue no greasiness silkiness
no tackiness softness Total
*1 ~ 10, 10 is the best
Analysis of moisturiser Table 2 (see page 55) provides the analytical data of the formulations made according to the formulations shown in Table 1.
Sensory evaluation of moisturiser Table 3 (See page 55) shows the results of the sensory evaluation of the formulations shown in Table 1.
Formulation evaluation summary The various surface active silicone polymers did alter the sensory of the formulation at 1% by weight added to the oil phase. The sensory score on the basic formulation was increased from 64.5 to 84.1. This information is presented in Figure 1.
When 1% ethyl methicone was added to the base formulation it provided a silky and brightened the skin, when compared to the control.
When 1% polysilicone 11 is added to the
base formulation provided a dry soft powdery skin feel.
When PEG-8 distearmonium chloride April 2019
PG-dimethicone was added to the base formulation, the formulation provided increased softness and a powdery skin feel, but due to the fact it has a cationic charge, the emulsion is not compatible with the thickener anionic thickener and is not recommended The trimethoxysiloxysilicate likewise
provided a significant increase in viscosity and for this reason is not recommended for this project.
Since the objective is to provide both softer,
dry, silky feel, a combination of ethyl methicone and polysilicone 11 is recommended at a level of 0.5% each, to achieve the desired effect.
Re-formulation
On occasion the concept of minimally disruptive formulation becomes more complicated and can be extended to more than one additive that contributes more than one functional property. We decided to try to make a cationic emulsion replacing the non-ionic emulsifier. Cationic emulsions are highly desirable since they often have both a unique feel and are highly
Great Good Good
Great Good Good
*Brookfield Synchro-Lectric Viscometer LVF7 Spindle #4, 6 rpm, at 25 °C
Good Good
Great Good
Not Good High Viscosity
Table 4: Moisturiser with cationic silicone emulsifier
Ingredient
Part A Water
Hydroxyl Hexyl Cellulose Glycerine Na2EDTA Part B
Cetyl Alcohol Coconut Oil Isododecane
Ethylhexyl Palmitate FC367 7 FC367A 8.3
8.5 8
6.5 64.5
7.5 7.5 9.2 9.0 9.0 9.0
85.0 FC367B 8
8.5 7.5
7.5 7.0 9.2 8.5 8.5 9.0
82.7 FC367C FC367D
Caprylic/capric Triglycerides
8
8.5 7.5
7
7.5 9.2 8.6 8.5 9.2
83.0 8
8.2 9999 7 5
5 6 8 5 6
8.5 8
7.5 7.5 9.2 8.8 8.8 8.8
8.41
PEG-100 Stearate GMS
Cetearyl Methicone Shea Butter
PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone
Ethyl Methicone Polysilicone 11
Sweet Almond Oil Silica
Part C Mica
Tocopherol
Retinal Palmitate VE Acetate Total
Procedure:
1. Into a cleaned and sanitized stainless container equipped with a propeller mixer, disperse hydroxyl hexyl cellulose in water until fully hydrated. Add the rest of ingredients of Part A one by one, mix until homogeneous. Then heat up to 75 ~ 80 °C.
2. In a separate clean and sanitized vessel, add all the ingredients of Part B, and heat up to 75 ~ 80 °C, and blend well until uniform. 3. Add Part B into Part A slowly and continue stirring.
4. Keep the temperature at 75 ~ 80 °C for 5 minutes and cool down until 45 °C, then add Part C one by one slowly and continue stirring and cool down to room temperature. 5. Homogenize the batch for 1 minutes at 20,000 rpm
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
0.50 0.05 0.05 0.10
100 1.70
0 0
1.17 0.50
3.00
0.50 0.50 0.60 0.50
FC368
70.50 0.90 5.00 0.10
2.00 5.00 4.00 2.00
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