60 SKIN CARE


1


2


3


4


5


6


Figure 2: Microscopic evaluation of Filaggrin expression in delipidised Skin at T24 hours. (1 = Vehicle; 2 = 2% EPO; 3 = 2% Buhle Manketti Seed Oil; 4 = 5% Buhle Manketti Seed Oil; 5 = 2% Elula KMSO; 6 = 5% Elula KMSO.


Elula KMSO compares more than favourably with Evening Primrose oil, a gold standard in the cosmetics industry for the improvement of a perturbed skin barrier. Of high interest is the observation that BMSO performs favourably as well, as we have previously reported in the treatment of hair frizz.18


With the potential for targeted


investigations, a widening knowledge of the beneficial effects of Elula KMSO on the skin can be achieved. A deeper understanding of its effect on the skin is now warranted, beyond that of filaggrin expression. The widespread use of the oil as a nutritional food additive in South Africa, opens up new possibilities for Elula KMSO as a ‘cosmetic’ nutraceutical for dietary skin benefits. Moreover, at the topical level, Elula KMSO should exhibit favourable sensorial properties. Its physico-chemical characteristics, observed lightness in texture, and balanced saturated and polyunsaturated lipid profile help this assumption. Further work is expected to confirm this.


PC Acknowledgement


The authors would like to thank Rebel Nature (https://www.rebel-nature.nl/) for the preparation of the test product formulations, and to Bio-EC (France) for study performance.


References 1 Rhaman H et al. A review on ethnobotany, phytochemistry and pharmacology of Citrullus lanatus L. Int. Res J Pharm. App Sci. 2013; 3(2):77-81


2 Athar M, Nasir M.Taxonomic perspective of plant species yielding vegetable oils used in cosmetics


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


and skin care products. African Journal of Biotechnology 2005; 4: 36–44


3 Bielfeldt S, Brandt M, Wilhelm KP, van der Hoeven H, Borchert S. Linoleic acid provides a protective effect against thermal damage of human hair. Poster Presentation HairS’ 11. 2011


4 Nesterova O, Samylina I, Bobylev R, Miroshnikov A. Study of physicochemical properties and fatty acid composition of pumpkin oil. Farmatsiya 1990; 39:75–76


5 Akhtar M, Iqbal M, Nawazish M. Lipid class and fatty acid composition of pumpkin seed oil. Journal of Scientific Research 1980; 32: 295–300


6 Nyam K, Tan C, Lai O. et al. Physicochemical properties and bioactive compounds of selected seed oils. LWT – Food and Science Technology 2009; 42: 1396–1403


7 Nyam K, Tan C, Karim R, Lai O. et al. 2010. Extraction of tocopherol-enriched oils from Kalahari melon and roselle seeds by supercritical fluid extraction (SFE-CO2). Food Chemistry 2010; 119:1278–1283


8 Mehra M, Pasricha V, Gupta R. Estimation of nutritional, phytochemical and antioxidant activity of seeds of musk melon (Cucumis melo) and water melon (Citrullus lanatus) and nutritional analysis of their respective oils. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry 205; 3(6): 98-102


9 Oelschlägel S, Menzel C,Speer K.Phytosterols and steryl esters in diverse Cucurbita, Cucumis and Citrullus seed oils. Lipid Technology 2012; 24: 81-184.


10 Jorge N, da Silva A, Malacrida C. Physicochemical characterisation and radical- scavenging activity of Cucurbitaceae seed oils. Nat Prod Res. 2015; 29(24):2313-7.


11 Al-Khalifa A. Physicochemical Characteristics,


Fatty Acid Composition, and Lipoxygenase Activity of Crude Pumpkin and Melon Seed Oils. J. Agric. Food Chem. 1996; 44 (4): 964–966.


12 Varghese S, Narmadha R, Gomathi D, Kalaiselvi M, Devaki K. Phytochemical screening and HPTLC finger printing analysis of Citrullus lanatus (Thunb.) seed. Journal of Acute Disease 2013; 122-126.


13 Montserrat-de la Paz S, Fernandez-Arche M, Angel-Martin M., Garcia-Gimenez M. Phytochemical characterization of potential nutraceutical ingredients from Evening Primrose oil (Oenothera biennis L.) Phytochem. Lett. 2014;8:158–162.


14 Muggli R. Systemic evening primrose oil improves the biophysical skin parameters of healthy adults. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2005;27:243–249.


15 Kendall A, Kiezel-Tsugunova M, Brownbridge L, Harwood J, Nicolaou A. Lipid functions in skin: Differential effects of n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids on cutaneous ceramides, in a human skin organ culture model. Biochim. Biophys. Acta. 2017;1859:1679–1689.


16 Hansen H, Jensen B. Essential function of linoleic acid esterified in acylglucosylceramide and acylceramide in maintaining the epidermal water permeability barrier. Evidence from feeding studies with oleate, linoleate, arachidonate, columbinate and alpha-linolenate. Biochim. Biophys. Acta. 1985;834:357–363


17 Vermaak I, Kamatou G, Komane-Mofokeng B, Viljoen A, Beckett K. African seed oils of commercial importance — Cosmetic applications. South African Journal of Botany 2011; 77: 920–933.


18 Moten I, Benhaim M, Callaghan T. Effective Reduction of Hair Frizz Volume by Buhle Manketti Seed Oil. Euro Cosmetics (in press) April 2019.


April 2019


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