84 SKIN PROTECTION
Table 1: Biolime profile Botanical name Common name Family
Part of the plant Phase
Activity
Main active components
Citrus aurantifolia Lime
Rutaceae Fruit
Aqueous extract Anti-pollution
Polysaccharides Citroflavonoïds Hesperidin Luteolin
extract a successful ingredient for skin protection against pollution.
Figure 3: Screenzym bio-guiding tool.
plant cell walls to release their content. Non-GMO food-grade enzymes will be mixed together to produce enzyme cocktails that will work in synergy to digest the plants. Each plant fraction needs a specific enzymatic cocktail depending on the target of extraction, i.e. the enzymatic cocktail will not be the same to extract vegetable oil or proteins or polyphenols from a same plant for example.
A bio-guiding tool In order to test a lot of enzyme combinations, Biolie has developed Screenzym (Fig 3), a bio-guiding tool. In a 96-well microplate, up to 20 enzymes are tested on a plant fraction like seed, leaf, whole plant or root for example. Extraction yield for each enzyme will be used with experience plan and mixing plan to design the best enzymatic cocktail, indicating the more efficient enzymes and the ratio between them. With Screenzym, cocktails containing between 8 and 15 enzymes are designed in a short time.
Extract of lime co-product Biolime is an organic aqueous active, extracted from the fruit of Citrus aurantifolia, rich in polysaccharides and citroflavonoïds (Table 1), without preservatives. Biolime is certified by COSMOS. Biolime (now referred to as ‘the lime extract’) has been developed using Biolie’s exclusive enzymatic extraction process on lime co-product (Fig 4). Organic limes are pressed to obtain the juice. All the rest, including peel, seeds and pulp is dried and grinded to obtain a powder which is used as starting raw material.
As a citrus extract, the new ingredient contains bioactive compounds such as polysaccharide derivatives, polyphenols and proteins, which are involved in several biological effects. Literature data shows that citrus polysaccharides, vitamins and polyphenols present significant activities including anti-ageing, anti-radiation, anti- proliferation, anti-oxidant and anti- inflammatory effects.1,2,3,4
Based on those elements Biolie has developed the lime
Urban Dust – A standard approved by FDA
Urban Dust (NIST® SRM® 1649b) was
prepared from atmospheric particulate material collected in the Washington, DC area using a baghouse specially designed for the purpose. The particulate material was collected over a period greater than 12 months and represents a time-integrated sample. While the sample is not intended to be representative of the area in which it was collected, it should generally typify atmospheric particulate matter obtained from an urban area. Urban Dust is representative of urban pollution, including all type of molecules, not only heavy metals or particles.
Urban Dust and mitochondria dysfunction
Skin cell mitochondria are one of the major targets of environmental pollution (Fig 5). The pro-oxidant property of Urban Dust is modulated by reactive superoxide radicals, generated by AhR ligand activation, or indirectly by targeting the mitochondrial electron transport chain (Fig 5). Mitochondria seem to be particularly
Fresh lime co-product
AQUEOUS FLOUR EXTRACT
BIOLIME Methanization
Figure 5: Urban pollution damages by including oxidative stress, mitochondria dysfunction and inflammation.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Figure 4: Biolime extraction process. April 2019
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