TESTING 77


irritation or aggression from ingredients characterised by their low potential irritant or allergenic, coupled with moisturising principles or constituents of the skin barrier. Others will provide a more symptomatic response with specialties designed to


Table 1: Test methods Test under dermatological control


Consumer testing Stinging testing: BoSS : Physiological approach


Skin sensitivity measure:


TEWL for the skin permeability:


Microcirculation: Moisturizing: Microbiome integrity:


At surface level Temperature:


pH : colour: Surface visualization: Neurometer Aquaflux, Dermalab, Evapometer, Vapometer... Laser Doppler, Tivi 700, Tivi 8000 Corneometer, Epsilon, MoistureMeter, MoistureMap, MoistureMeterEpi… PCRs, rRNA, S16 rDNA, ITS Mass Spectrometry,Nano LC-MS/MS FIR thermal camera, thermometer, Evatherm Skin-pH-meter 905


C-Cube, Chromameter, Spectro-colorimeter, Visioscan, Mexameter, SkinColorCatch, TiVi 70


DermaTop, Antera 3D, for the entire face vizualisation : ColorFace, Visia, Visio-Face...


Cellular level and omics approach Lipids analysis


Multi-omics Skin structure: April 2019 with Shotgun mass spectrometry Genomics, Redoxmics, Proteomics by LC-MS/MS... Optical Multiphoton Tomography [MPT Flex], confocal microscopy including large sensitive skin panel answering questionnaire.


testing the sensory answer in the nose wings lactic acid, capsaicin or dimethylsulfoxyde.


Burden of Sensitive Skin questionnaire including 23 questions (L. Misery June 2017 JAAD)


correct unrest and disorders found, such as inflammation, discrete vasodilation and where there are sensations of tingling and warming. After the Dewy wave, a new emerging trend coming from South Korea, the Skip Care, focuses on quality rather


than the amount of cosmetic products used routinely. The goal is to return to a simpler beauty routine, identifying the essential ingredients in order to avoid any use of unnecessary products. To do this, we find multifunctional products for the adage: fewer products for the same profits. The idea is to focus on 2 steps: cleaning and hydration. However, this is linked to the problem of sensitive skins which only demand what is strictly necessary in formulas.


Thus, cosmetic products first protect,


then restore the barrier function, strengthen the extracellular matrix, repair, soothe pruritus and itching, regenerate or calm irritations and redness. They can also reduce inflammation and help to treat both allergic contact dermatitis and atopic dermatitis, even if it is not cosmetically correct to say it under some regulatory guidelines.


Skinobs platform lists more than 30 methods that meet this claim, in addition to other methods such as consumer testing, clinical scoring and sensory analysis (Table 1).


Conclusion


Major innovations in the perception objectivation remain to come if one considers the latest research on sounds, taste, smell or vision receptors present in the keratinocytes as specified by Mr Briand (INRA), and Mrs Broussard (Shiseido), during the recent JP Marty days on the topic of barrier function. In complementary ways, testing innovations will be initiated with new active developments, without talking about the most promising role of cannabinoids in the treatment of itching. The more the mechanisms behind the sensitive skin phenomenon will be understood, the more cosmetic industries will be able to offer effective and durable solutions to treat sensitive skins, through the elaboration of formulations targeted specifically to these mechanisms.


PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


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