SKIN PROTECTION 83


Your ally for natural urban skin protection


 Stéphanie Alves, Fayçal Ounnas – Biolie, France


Pollution is present everywhere in urban areas. Indoor, outside, skin is exposed to pollution all day long. How can you protect your skin from this constant stress? Biolie has figured it out for you! Pollution is composed of pesticides, heavy metals, particles and other harmful chemicals that will disrupt skin barrier function and microbiota. It will produce several intracellular damages by oxidative stress, activation of mitochondrial AhR, ATP production decrease and inflammation. Rich in citroflavonoids and saccharides, Biolime will work in and out of skin to fight against pollution damage.


The art of enzymatic extraction Biolie is a French industrial company located in Nancy, in the East of France, specialised in enzymatic extraction of plant origin natural ingredients. Biolie has developed and patented a green enzymatic extraction process (Fig 1) to produce natural ingredients for different markets like cosmetics, food-supplements, nutrition,


animal-feed or plant care. Since its creation in 2012, Biolie has worked on more than 250 plants, for more than 80 R&D contracts and registered 6 patents: one for the process and 5 for natural ingredients. Biolie’s business activity is to design, develop, produce and commercialise natural ingredients for customers through service delivery (R&D, production and patent license) or development of its own catalog of natural cosmetic and food- supplement ingredients distributed in more than 25 countries through a network of distributors and partners.


After characterisation to identify molecules of interest, the plant is grinded in order to increase the contact surface for extraction between the plant and the enzymes and then mixed with the minimum quantity of water necessary to allow a good stirring. Selected or designed cocktail of non-GMO, food-grade enzymes is added into the bulk to digest the plant. At the end of the extraction, the different fractions from the plant are separated by


OILY PHASE


AQUEOUS EXTRACT


FLOUR Figure 2: Biorefinery concept.


centrifugation: aqueous fraction, lipophilic fraction and solid fraction. Using the concept of biorefinery (Fig 2),


from a plant, this process produces up to 3 fractions in 1 step rich in tocopherols, sterols and apolar compounds for the lipophilic fraction and rich in polyphenols, fermentescible sugars, oligosaccharides and hydro soluble proteins for the aqueous fraction.


This sustainable technology, without solvent develops Cosmos-certified and/or organic natural ingredients. It is also a biomimicry concept as enzymes are found everywhere in Nature, especially in mushrooms which digest the substrate in which they are growing to produce smaller molecules used as food. Biolie’s catalog of natural ingredients follows the concept of green chemistry by using only water and non-GMO food-grade enzymes to extract actives from the plants. Mainly by-products have been selected to develop the products, like out of shape tomatoes for Amber Orange, carrots for Carnelian Orange, pepper bell for Rhodonite Red, Jade Green or Citrine Yellow, cucumbers for Isocumis or original by-products like peanut skin from peanut butter manufacture for Peanut Skin Oil, curcuma from curcuma juice manufacture for Heliodor Yellow.


Figure 1: Patented enzymatic extraction process. April 2019


A plant is mainly composed of pectin, cellulose, hemicellulose and phenolic acid locks. Enzymes, like scissors, will disrupt


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


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