152 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
Modern life de-synchronises skin wellbeing
Julie Droux – Clariant Active Ingredients, France
Wellbeing is a pleasant state resulting from the satisfaction needs of the body and the calmness of the mind. Ultimately, a healthy mind and body are seen as the way to reach wellbeing and happiness. People aim to find a better balance of life, adopting wellness activities. This has translated into a strong consumer demand in many markets – ranging from healthy and organic food to alternative medicine, beauty care to detox, sports activities to mindfulness, green tourism to a healthy home. Consumers are looking for alternatives in line with a more sustainable and ethical way of life. Pure and natural products are top of the shopping lists in all fields.
An environment full of stressors But a healthy body and the absence of disease are not identical to wellbeing. Sometimes the little daily problems become seemingly bigger in our fast-paced life style of today, with ever changing digital technologies, globalisation and a ubiquitous lack of time. Difficult situations in all areas of life can cause mental stress. Stress can arise due to professional pressure, overwork, a failure, transport, pollution, jet lag, lack of time, relationships... anything around us. And there, the boundaries between mental and physical wellbeing blur. Stress is not only related to our psychological state, it is also related to our body condition. Stress is a ‘fight or flight’ physiological reaction which helps us respond to danger, increasing our heart rate and our breathing. Short-term stress can be helpful, but long-term tension is linked to various health conditions.
Stress and beauty: a contradiction Skin reflects all the emotions, all the feelings perceived all day long. Poor global body and mind wellbeing is directly related to poor skin wellbeing. Whatever the cause, stress directly affects the skin, causing oxidation, irritation and cells damages, among many other skin consequences. Dark circles, pimples, redness, hair loss – stress and beauty just do not mix. To be beautiful, be serene. But how can we prevent stress from
affecting our appearance? In recent years, PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Synchronised circadian clock
Desynchronised circadian clock due to stress (phase and amplitude deregulation)
Figure 1: Synchronised and desynchronised circadian rhythm, characterised by two key parameters “phase and amplitude”.
the beauty care sector has developed a wealth of new and effective skin and hair care products. Beauty is the leading segment of the welfare sector with a market size of USD 999 billion dollars in 2015. For minimum hygiene, we consume an average of five cosmetic products per day. They are part of our daily lives and cosmetics are the main actors of beauty. For top appearance – at the time of social media influencers and ubiquitous selfies on Instagram – consumers are attracted by ever more effective care products and in constant demand for innovation in their cosmetics. Improving the wellbeing of skin is inspiring experts from Clariant Active Ingredients and its South Korean partner BioSpectrum. The circadian rhythm or 24- hour body clock was identified as an essential mechanism at preventing skin cells damages, blocking stress impact and balancing skin well being. B-Circadin™ maintains the vital synchronisation of the skin’s circadian cycle, rapidly improving the complexion while decreasing puffiness and dark circles.
The circadian rhythm: an internal clock that governs all our cells All living organisms have an internal biological clock that allows them to adapt
to the night and day cycles. This explains why we sleep at night, and are active during day-time, following a global rhythm of approximately 24 hours, called circadian rhythm. Different molecules and hormones are synthetised by the body according to different moment of the day, regulating sleep, appetite, awareness level, or body temperature. This global rhythm is regulated by the brain that captures light intensity through the retina, allowing synchronisation of the different mechanisms. The circadian rhythm not only governs the clock of the body in a global manner, but also controls the clock of each individual cell in each organ. Skin cells do not derogate to this rule: every cell has its own rhythm, depending on its function. And the skin’s wellbeing depends on the ability of the cells to work in good cooperation: they need to be synchronised.
The circadian rhythm is controlled by 4 main genes Biological clocks, especially in the skin, are regulated by a complex genetic mechanism. Some of these genes, called Per (for Period) and Cry (for Cryptochrome) are expressed at their highest level in the morning, then decrease with the day
April 2019
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