76 TESTING
Soothing effect dedicated to sensitive skin
Anne Charpentier – Skinobs, France
The skin plays multiple roles of protection, perception, immunity, regulation of blood and lymphatic reservoir for the whole body. Thanks to several mechanical, chemical or biological (sebum, biofilm ...) reactions, the skin ensures its integrity according to the various endogenous or exogenous environmental variations. Today, the increase in the fragile phenomena of skin is a major issue in the development of dermo-cosmetics.
The concept of sensitive skin has been a topic of news for more than 30 years for formulators form the cosmetic industry. Skin irritation, sometimes confused with allergic skin, results in redness, flaking, vesicles. Sensitive skin is often associated with a consumer’s feelings. Since the 1990s there has been an evolution in the
understanding of this skin mechanism in Europe that has led to the development of products specifically oriented towards this type of skin. The contribution of academic research in the fields of cutaneous innervation, intercellular communication, proteomics or genomics has made it possible to better understand this skin and to develop products that are always more adapted and targeted. Three mechanisms have been identified as potentially involved in the physiology of sensitive skin. They are: The disruption of the barrier function, The specific nervous system, The involvement of immune cells. In fact, the loss of the skin barrier function causes a decrease in the protection of the cutaneous nerve fibres and exposes them to the external environment. The density of nerve fibres present in the skin can also play a role. Finally, neuronal hyperactivity is explained by the presence of receptors that no longer protect, but induce sensations of pain, warmth and itching in the skin’s sensitive nerve fibres.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Thus, sensitive skin can affect all periods of life, ranging from infants to seniors. Babies are particularly prone to redness and irritation due to their still immature skin barrier. They have a lower hydrolipidic film, a thin dermis, a more permeable skin and almost non-existent protection against the sun and the heat. The skin of teenagers may also have a certain sensitivity because of aggressive cleansers used, leaving the skin hypersensitive. For mature skins, these are particularly vulnerable to external aggression. The activity of the sebaceous glands slows over the years and the skin becomes thinner and more dehydrated.
Analysing the sensitive skin phenomenon Called “Dermatosis Invisible”, “atopy”, or “reactive skin”, sensitive skin is a recent phenomenon as it would have been described for the first time in the second half of the 20th century. This is a common disorder that now affects more than one in two in France and is widespread throughout the world. Today we know that 1 in 2 is affected, whereas in China and South Korea it is 62% of women who have sensitive skin. The causes of the higher prevalence in Asia compared to European countries would be due to overwork and stress, as well as to being exposed to pollution in large cities. Clinical studies associated to
biometrological assessments in vivo on humans enables the observation of functional cutaneous signs which allow the description of healthy skin and the different signs of sensitive manifestations. The soothing effects are associated to respond to environment (water, wind, sun, pollution, cold) specific skin physiological conditions, internal factors (hormones..) or lifestyle (alcohol, stress…).
Formulating for sensitive skins Formulations for sensitive skins generally contain few ingredients, (only the necessary, non-superfluous ingredients), limited preservatives, adapted filters, and little or no fragrance. From these advances, some brands formulate skin care to avoid
April 2019
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