150 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
Table 2: Compatibility of Rheo2Green1 with typical rinse-off ingredients in terms of homogeneity and viscosity. Weight % (active) 1.0
Thickened Solution of 30% Rheo2Green1 (10% active) +
Sorbitol Glycerin
Glycerin Monooleate Potassium sorbate Sodium Benzoate GLDA
Ethylhexylglycerin Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Oleic Acid
Ricinoleic Acid Ethanol
Xanthan Gum
Carrageenan Gum Carbomer
– – –
of the end product when 30% Concentrate 2 is used. The results correspond to criteria A.
Conclusion
The scope of application for Rheo2Green products is very wide: from skin and hair care products to household and animal care. Everywhere where mildness, outstanding foam and good cleaning are required, Rheo2Green is recommended. Achievement of viscosity without using thickening agents, excellent flow behaviour and transparency are additional advantages
– – –
–– –– ––
of formulations based on Rheo2Green concentrates. Such low pH personal care products are able to decrease pH of unbalanced skin to the healthy neutral 5.5 level. They can be produced cost-effective, are environmentally friendly and suitable for ‘natural / green’ certification.
PC
References 1 Kanari M, Kawasaki Y, Sakamoto K. J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1993; 27: 498.
2 Nnanna IA, Xia J. Protein-Based Surfactants. Surfactant Science Series 2001; 101: 261- 270. 3 Husmann M, Weisse J, Wragg P, Wasko J.
Formulation 1: ”Green Thickened Shampoo” based on Rheo2Green2 Phase
Ingredients Aqua A Rheo2Green2
(Lauryl Glucoside, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate)
Panthenol (75%) B
Chamomilla Recutita Extract (2%) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (40%) Glycerin Monooleate Sorbitol
C Procedure
Rheo2Green2: 45.0% 6800 mPa.s 35.0% 3800 mPa.s
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Mix A and add B in listed order. Mix until formulation appears homogeneous. Adjust pH with C. Appearance: Light yellowish, clear pH value: 5.1 Haake, Shear rate = 5 s-1
, T = 20ºC Lactic Acid 45.0 (35.0)
1.5 1.0 0.5 0.2 1.0
q.s to pH = 5.1 + ++ + +
++ ++ ++ + +
+
O + + +
O + –
–– ––
0.1 0.2 0.5 2.0
++ ++
–– O O +
+
–– –– ––
+
––– ––– –
O 5.0
++ +
10 +
O 20
Viscosity improvement
Minor influence –– –––
Viscosity drop and/or precipitation
Perlastan Surfactants Derived from Naturallyoccurring Amino Acids. Cosmetic Science Technology 2008; 194-201.
4 Held E, Husmann M, Heinrich U, Tronnier H. Dermatological Compatibility of Amino Acid Based Surfactants – A Clinical Trial. SOFW Journal 2011; 137: 38-42.
5 Lee CH, Kawasaki Y, Maibach HI. Effect of Surfactant Mixtures on Irritant Contact Dermatitis Potential in Man: Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate and Sodium Lauryl Sulphate. Contact Dermatitis 1994; 30: 205-209.
6 Sugar M, Schmukker R. Reduction of Skin Adsorption by Sodium Laureth Sulphate: One new way to increase skin hydration after using shower products. SOFW Journal 2001; 127: 3-5.
Weight % 50.8 (60.8)
7 Scherbakow S, Husmann M, Bykov Y, Kirchner T, Stäuble C, Wragg P. Dynamic Properties of Amino Acid Based Surfactants. Personal Care Europe 2016; 10(4): 75-80.
8 Gitte I. Petersen and Trine Thorup Anderse, DHI - Water and Environment, Working Report from Danish Environmental Protection Agency Nr. 10 2004: Substitution of surface active substances in cosmetic products.
9 Uusitalo T (Ecolabelling Finland), Hirsch T (Ecolabelling Norway), Eskeland M B (Ecolabelling Norway). Revision of the harmonised Detergent Ingredient Database; Final report for DID 2016, Version 2016, May 2016.
10 Husmann M. Surface Active Agents Derived from Naturally-Occurring Amino Acids. CESIO- 7th World Surfactants Congress 2008.
11 ECHA website:
https://echa.europa.eu/nl/registration-dossier/- /registered-dossier/11409
12 COSMOS website:
http://www.cosmos-
standard-rm.org/
13 NATRUE website:
http://www.natrue. org/information-for/manufacturers/raw-materials/
April 2019
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