116 TESTING
Analysing content-containing migration interaction
Dr S. De Vaugelade, Dr S. Pirnay – Expertox, France
The European regulation n° 1223/2009 concerning cosmetic products takes care of the risk evaluation of the migration phenomenon of substances from the packaging into product. Despite the fact that no migration limit is set, it is clear that the presence of migrants should not be intentional and its presence should be evaluated in terms of safety purpose.1
In
addition, the product safety assessment report must provide information on packaging materials as well as on the possible migration of concerned components.1
Plastic is the result of the polymerisation of several monomer units. The nature of the monomers used for the reaction has an influence on the properties of the polymer obtained.
Nevertheless, plastics do not consist
entirely of polymerised monomers. The properties of plastic polymers can be modified by additives. These additives can migrate from the packaging because they are weakly bound to the polymer, and can have a health effect.
In order to comply with the
European regulation, cosmetics manufacturers have to fulfil these mandatory obligations and therefore pay attention to the choice of materials for their packaging, their purity, and the possible migration of substances into products with their toxicological evaluations.
Plastic packaging Because of their attractive properties, plastic packaging is the most used in cosmetics. Plastic packaging is cost effective and can be designed in different shapes and colours. A retrospective study conducted by the Expertox laboratory reported that a majority of cosmetics manufacturers used plastic packaging.2
100000 90000 80000 70000 60000 50000 40000 30000 20000 10000
16.00 17.00 18.00 Time Figure 1: Dosage in oil simulant after migration by GC-MS. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE April 2019 Migration
Migration is one of the ‘content-containing interactions’. During its shelflife, a product can interact in different ways with the packaging and/or with the environment. Migration is characterised by a transfer of material from the packaging to the product. Migration can be divided into three steps: The diffusion of the migrant in the packaging,
The mixing of the migrant at the interface with the product
The diffusion in the product. Each step can be described
mathematically by equations. The intensity of the phenomenon depends on a constant called diffusion coefficient. This coefficient is molecule dependent and can increase
under certain conditions, for example in the case of high temperature.3
Migration also
depends on the physicochemical nature of the migrant as well as the cosmetic product. Migration can have a potential influence on the quality and safety of the product.
Migrants
Most of the migrants are intentionally added to improve the plastic polymer’s properties: Plasticisers such as the phthalates, whose function is to increase the flexibility of the plastic,
UV stabilisers, which allow the packaging not to degrade under UV rays,
Antioxidants, which prevent the oxidation of the packaging in contact with air or light.
Among migrants, it is also possible to detect monomers, which come from the plastic polymer chain separated from the chain after degradation under environmental conditions. A well-known example of monomer is bisphenol A. Finally, certain compounds have not necessarily been added by the manufacturer. Under the effect of certain environmental conditions, certain molecules present in the plastic polymer can degrade and release by-product.
Identification of phthalates in cosmetic packaging
19% 1% DBP 80% 19.00 20.00
DEHP DBP Abscence of phthalate
Abundance
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