FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 147
Natural micellar thickening with glutamate surfactants
Dr Yana Bykov, Dr Swetlana Scherbakow, Martina Spiegel, Dr Martin Husmann - Schill+Seilacher, Germany
Amino-acid based surfactants have been widely used in the last two decades in personal care products as well as in household, industrial and institutional cleaners due to a lot of advantages. They are very mild1-3
which do not lead to dry skin4
from the negative influence of severe surfactants5,6
Table 1: The Rheo2Green range Rheo2Green1
anionic surfactants, and protect it
such as SLS and SLES, by their
use as co-surfactants. Additionally to good cleansing properties they show perfect foam formation. Herewith a high micro- porosity of foam supports its creaminess and stability.7
are readily biodegradable8-10 demonstrate extremely low toxicity.11
Rheo2Green1 MB Rheo2Green2
Rheo2Green2 MB Aqua, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Aqua, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Amino-acid based surfactants and
These
two benefits are very important for creating ecologically pure products without a negative impact on the environment. Glutamic acid based surfactants occupy a special position in this range of surface active ingredients because they can be obtained completely from renewable plant sources. This fact enables their application also for COSMOS12
and NaTrue13 certified
natural personal care products. Until now, the thickening of formulations based on these “green” surfactants represents the main problem with their application. In this case, addition of salt does not give the desired effect. Therefore
it was necessary to use water-soluble polymers, such as xanthan gum or acrylates that affects sensory experience and appearance of the final product. Recently it has been found that, using a combination of sodium salt of cocoyl or lauroyl glutamate with lauryl glucoside, a sufficiently high viscosity of the end product is achieved at a standard surfactant concentration in absence of a thickening agent.
Based on this knowledge, Schill + Seilacher GmbH has developed a new product line, Rheo2Green, which are ready- to-use surfactant blend concentrates. They simply should be diluted and do not require an addition of further surfactants.
The two options Currently, there are two products - Rheo2Green1 (now referred to as ‘Concentrate 1’) and Rheo2Green2 (now referred to as ‘Concentrate 2’) - on the
100000 10000 1000 100 10
4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 pH-Value Figure 1: Formation of spherical and cylindrical micelles. April 2019
Figure 2: Viscosity of Rheo2Green1 solutions at different dilution as a function of pH measured with Brookfield Sp.3, 5rpm, RT. (W%product - percentage weight of raw material; W%active - corresponding concentration of active matter).
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
market, based on a blend of sodium cocoyl glutamate and lauryl glucoside. This combination of anionic and non-ionic surfactants at a specially selected ratio allows formulators to achieve maximum cleansing and foaming performance in the final product.7
Disodium cocoyl glutamate and lauryl glucoside are ‘green’ surfactants, therefore all products of the Rheo2Green series are COSMOS and NaTrue conforming. Both are readily biodegradable and environmentally friendly which makes them suitable for Ecolabel (EU or Nordic Swan) certified end products. Schill+Seilacher GmbH is certified by RSPO for MB Supply Chain Model, hence the Rheo2Green products are also available in Mass Balance quality.
Concentrate 2 contains sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate in quantities sufficient to preserve end product.
W%product W%active
40% 13% 30% 10% 20% 6.6%
5.3
5.5
Viscosity (mPa*s)
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