MARINE INGREDIENTS 53
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
100% *85% 77% 78% *91% Control -FCCP 0% 0.1% 0.15%
Natura-Tec Marine CellShield AP concentration (%) +FCCP
Figure 5: Cytosolic ATP rate variation under stress conditions.
the range of tested concentrations. The Pavlova lutheri active restores mitochondrial energetic metabolism. Measurement of the mitochondrial membrane potential
The mitochondrial membrane potential of NHDF cells has been evaluated under environmental stress conditions induced by FCCP from 0.1% to 0.2% of use of the Pavlova lutheri active for 18 days. Membrane Potential is the difference of electrical potential existing between the extracellular and intracellular membrane of any living cell.
The mitochondrial membrane potential (∆PSI) was assessed by measuring the fluorescence intensities IF2 (λ=590nm) and IF1 (λ=535nm) of the JC-1 probe. The ∆PSI of the cells is expressed by the ratio [IF2 / IF1]. Result: FCCP induced a mitochondrial membrane potential reduction of 41%. This result indicates that chronic exposure to FCCP is correlated to a fall in mitochondrial membrane potential. A significant increase (+ 5%) is observed at 0.2% of the Pavlova lutheri active. This
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
result shows that the treatment of cells by the Pavlova lutheri active makes it possible to modulate significantly the fall of ∆PSI during the mitochondrial response to FCCP-induced stress. Procollagen type I Peptide (PIP) neosynthesis
The PIP rate of NHDF cells has been evaluated under environmental stress conditions induced by FCCP (carbonylcyanide p-trifluoromethoxy phenylhydrazone) from 0.1% to 0.2% of use of the Pavlova lutheri active for 13 days. Procollagen I is the precursor of the collagen type 1 which is the main component of the extracellular matrix of the dermis. Collagen type 1 contributes to provide resistance, elasticity and suppleness to skin.
Due to its action on mitochondrial
energetic metabolism, FCCP acts on various metabolic processes as well as collagen I neosynthesis. FCCP disrupts this pathway by inhibiting the synthesis of one of its precursors, the Procollagen type I Peptide (PIP).
100% 59% 58% 60% 64%
50.0 45.0 40.0 35.0 30.0 25.0 20.0 15.0 10.0 5.0 0.0
Control -FCCP 0% 0.1% 0.15% 0.2%
Natura-Tec M CellShield AP concentration (%) +FCCP
Figure 6: Mitochondrial membrane potential level variation under stress conditions.
April 2019 0.2%
Result: Under environmental stress stimulation, the Pavlova lutheri active helps to restore collagen Type 1 neosynthesis. Our active increases significantly procollagen synthesis of +16% already at 0.1% and up to 26% at 0.2% of use, compared to negative control. It acts to protect and maintain skin integrity, counteracting the deleterious effects of stress on skin ageing (Fig 7). A daily exposure to FCCP induces a mitochondrial dysfunction associated to a decrease of cytosolic ATP, a fall of the mitochondrial membrane potential and a decrease of collagen synthesis capacity. Today, a number of scientists’ studies demonstrated that several disorders of the skin are linked to alterations of mitochondrial energy metabolism. Then, improving mitochondrial function can be beneficial for damaged skin and can be used to reduce skin disorders. These studies prove the ability of the Pavlova lutheri active to: Restore mitochondrial energetic metabolism
Maintain cellular homeostasis under stress conditions
Protect one of the major anabolic pathways of fibroblasts which is the synthesis of neocollagen. This study concludes that the Pavlova
lutheri active shows a powerful protecting activity against environmental stress.
In vivostudy
Skin tone homogeneity: reduces redness and dark spot appearance Skin tone effect is evaluated after application of a cream containing 1.5% of the Pavlova lutheri active for 1 month, 2 times a day, on a panel of 20 volunteers from 44 to 74 years old. Quantitative colorimetric and morphological analysis are carried out by Framescan. The morphology of skin spots is evaluated by measurement of the Surface
47.6%
26% 16% Control -FCCP
0% 0%
0.1% 17% 0.15% 0.2%
Natura-Tec M CellShield AP concentration (%) +FCCP
Figure 7: Procollogen neosynthesis under stress conditions. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Mitochondrial membrane potential (%)
Cytosolic ATP Rate (%)
Procollagen 1 neosynthesis (%)
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