TESTING 117
To optimise the evaluation of the content-container interaction in cosmetic field, Expertox laboratory established a list of molecules to be analysed, using agri- food regulation4
as well as bibliographic
data on plastic packaging migrations. The resulting list was then compared with the molecules banned or restricted in cosmetic products according to the European regulation n ° 1223/2009.1
In
addition, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) keeps a list of molecules suspected of being at risk for health or the environment.5
The list has also been
implemented by other molecules that could be a threat to the health of consumers. Finally, 49 candidate molecules with potential health risk or banned in the product’s formula, and which are likely to migrate from their packaging to mix with the product were retained.
Testing method To help manufacturers be in accordance with this regulation, in 2012 Expertox developed a test to assess the migration phenomenon in cosmetic products. This has been optimised in 2016, to detect a larger number of potentially toxic molecules able to migrate from the packaging.2-6
Three methods of dosage
have been using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry by liquid and headspace injection and liquid chromatography coupled with UV detection. The methods were validated for the linearity, accuracy, precession, repeatability, LOD and limit of quantification. This procedure has proved robust, rapid, relatively inexpensive and sensitive for simultaneous quantification of migrants in simulants and in products. Today, laboratory Expertox includes all bisphenols: S, F, M, B, AF, AP, BADGE in its method of ICC in order to best meet the requirements of safety concerning cosmetic products, in particular on packaging.
Retrospective study
Since 2012, the evaluation of the content- containing interaction in cosmetic products and the direct dosage of phthalates in finished products have been two routine tests conducted by Expertox. A review of Expertox tests reports since 2012 was conducted focusing on the evaluation of the content-containing interaction in cosmetic products and the direct dosage of phthalates in finished products. 172 packages with 13 different materials (PE, PET, PEHD, PP, PMMA, PS,…) and 103 finished products (emulsion, lotion, oil, lips gloss, powder, gel, serum, lipstick, blush, eyeliner, mascara, eye pencil, and nail polish) were evaluated. The study shows that only two phthalates were detected both in the packs and in the products: di-2-
April 2019
550000 500000 450000 400000 350000 300000 250000 200000 150000 100000 50000
.00 5% 32.00 Time Identification of phthalates in finished products 1%
DEHP
34.00
93%
DEHP DBP Abscence of phthalate
Figure 2: Direct dosage on finished product by GC-MS.
ethyl hexyl phthalate (DEHP), and di-butyl phthalate (DBP) (Figs 1 &2). Concentration of DEHP should not be negligible. It will be necessary to perform a risk assessment on a case-by-case basis to establish that the product does not pose a threat to the health of the consumer. DBP was only detected in trace levels likely being present as an impurity (consistent with the SCCNFP: cosmetic products may contain small amounts of carcinogens, mutagens, or substances toxic to reproduction).7-8 A more recent retrospective study was conducted on 123 tests reports between January 2017 and December 2018. It was found that Di-2-ethyl hexylphthalate (DEHP) has been detected in 5 tested products, Di- butyl phthalate (DBP) and Benzaldehyde (BEN) have been detected in 2 tested products, and finally bisphenol A has been detected in 1 tested product.
PC
References 1 Regulation (EC) n°1223/2009 of the European
Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products (OJ L 342, 22.12.2009, pp. 59-209)
2 Thomas C, Siong D, Pirnay S. Evaluation of the content-containing interaction in cosmetic products using gas chromatography-mass
spectrometry, Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014; 36(4), 327-335
3 Huang XL, Wang ZW, Hu CY, Zhu Y, Wang J. Factors affecting migration of contaminants from paper through polymer coating into food stimulants, Packaging Technology and Science 2012; 26: 23-31.
4 Council Directive 82/711/EEC of 18 October 1982 laying down the basic rules necessary for testing migration of the constituents of plastic materials and articles intended to come into contact with foodstuffs (OJ L 297, 23.10.1982, pp. 26–30)
5 List ECHA SVHC
https://echa.europa.eu/candidate-list-table
6 Charron C, De Vaugelade S, Richard F, Largitte A, Pirnay S. Optimization of the method of the content-containing interaction evaluation for cosmetic products by gas chromatography- mass spectrometry, Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018; 40 (3): 269-275.
7 Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products And Non-Food Products Intended For Consumers, Chemical ingredients in cosmetic products classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction, 2001.
8 Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP), Opinion on phthalates in cosmetic products, 11th plenary meeting of 21 March 2007.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Abundance
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