SKIN PROTECTION 65 ROS generation in Keratinocytes exposed to H2 % from baseline (untreated control)
150 125 100 75 50 25 0
-25 H2 O2 O μM H2 O2 500 μM
Figure 4: T. obliquus carotenoids can reduce the internal ROS load attributable to excess hydrogen peroxide. Cells were incubated with 0 µM or 500 µM hydrogen peroxide with and without 0.005% T. obliquus carotenoids. Internal ROS generation was brought back to an almost normal level in the presence of T. obliquus carotenoids while the vehicle DMSO did not have a significant influence on internal ROS concentration. Unpaired Student’s t-test. The statistical values in black are the result of comparison with the untreated control while the blue value is the result of comparison with the vehicle control.
Protection against lipid peroxidation (cumene hydroperoxide stressed) % change from untreated control
20 0
-20 -40 -60
-100% *** *** Cumene hydroperoxide treated **
+127% ***
*
Untreated control Vehicle control Tocopherol 0.25% Tocopherol 0.8% T.obliquus carotenoid 0.005% T.obliquus carotenoid 0.01%
+33% p=0.11
**
Mean + SEM; n=8;
* = p<0.05 ** = p<0.01 *** = p<0.001
Figure 5: T. obliquus carotenoids protect against lipid peroxidation. Induction of lipid peroxidation with cumene hydroperoxide leads to an increase in lipid peroxidation or a decrease in the protective power of the cells against lipid peroxidation by 32 %. Addition of tocopherol did not change this result. Addition of T. obliquus carotenoids fully protected the cells from the lipid peroxidation stress induced by cumene hydroperoxide. Unpaired Student’s t-test. The statistical values in black are the result of comparison with the untreated control while the red value is the result of comparison with the vehicle control.
the skin has devised an effective countermeasure against these hazards. This is the very effective shield known as the skin barrier. The skin barrier is composed of corneocytes present in the lipids of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. Additionally, there is a natural moisturisation factor (NMF) that also forms part of the skin barrier. While this facilitates skin hydration, the stratum corneum lipids provide a barrier against transepidermal water loss. If these lipids deteriorate, this will have a severe impact on the barrier function of the skin and lack of skin hydration and premature skin ageing will be the consequences. The major potential danger is photo-oxidative impairment of the skin barrier by UV and blue light; these are most intense in summer and at the equator, as the UV index shows. Our body
April 2019
has developed a defence strategy against this threat: it employs antioxidants, mainly carotenoids, which are released on the surface of the skin.11
This is to prevent
radiation generated reactive oxygen species (ROS). These molecules readily undergo reactions and can cause lipid peroxidation. This will mean the skin barrier can no longer function properly while it will also become susceptible to further damage. Carotenoids are the most effective antioxidants when it comes to preventing the oxidation of substances such as squalene12
and they are also highly efficient in blocking HEV light. As such, the skin is protected to a certain degree. But our body cannot produce carotenoids on its own. We have to ingest them by eating vegetables and these powerful antioxidants are then excreted in the sweat and from the
**
-86% *
Untreated control Vehicle control T.obliquus carotenoid 0.005%
O2
sebaceous glands and deposited where they are needed most.13.14
In this way, the
skin produces its own ‘Faraday shield’ that protects it against radiation from natural sources.
p=0.07
Mean + SEM; n=4;
* = p<0.05 ** = p<0.01
Carotenoids: the perfect natural solution We could say that the skin creates its own topical cosmetic formulation at the frontline of its battle with ROS in the form of the antioxidants it supplies to the skin barrier. What has worked for thousands of years may now have to be improved as today we encounter artificial radiation on a regular basis, we are living longer and we like to retain a youthful appearance as long as possible. As such, our natural antioxidant shield is constantly hard-pressed. In summer, increased sun exposure leads to an increased loss of carotenoids. Interestingly, not only blue light irradiation, but also fatigue, illness, smoking, and alcohol consumption have a negative impact on skin carotenoids.15
The new
healthier nutrition trend can help us retain an appropriate level of carotenoids on our skin. However, we do not always have the opportunity to maintain the balance. Thus we need to supplement our skin to ensure we are fully protected. It is obvious that the appropriate cosmetic solution for this is to increase the amount of carotenoids in the stratum corneum by means of topical application of these substances in order to preserve the efficacy of the skin barrier. The result will be a more potent, more robust skin barrier with fewer detached corneocytes due to dry skin and scaling. A perfect solution is to provide the skin with an additional reservoir of this important supplement in form of the natural carotenoids present in the active ingredient Radicare®
-Gold (INCI: Crambe Abyssinica
Seed Oil, Beta-Carotene, Xanthophylls, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract). Radicare-Gold is an exclusive blend of
natural β–carotene and xanthophyll (lutein) obtained from the fresh water alga Tetradesmus obliquus (T. obliquus carotenoids). Carotenoids are the most important natural antioxidants that neutralise molecules which undergo excitation on exposure to light or radiation because of the large conjugated π–electron system (the large number of nearby double bonds, see Fig 2). This can distribute excess energy resulting from excited electron states over the whole molecule and disintegrate it by simple vibration.16
Additionally, carotenoids
can eliminate radicals by donating a hydrogen atom - just as other antioxidants do - but they can also donate an electron to a radical, which other antioxidants are not able to do.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188
