ESSENTIAL OILS 129
standard is accepted as routine. Typical physical parameters like colour, odour and appearance or physical wet analysis; specific gravity, refractive index and optical rotation, once specified to account of natural variation within a population of batches from the same source will identify the variations in composition that come outside of the normal range of accepted variation. However, it is far too blunt an instrument to be able to separate natural variation from adulteration. Additional more sophisticated analysis is
required in the form of Gas Chromatography (GC) using Flame Ionization Detector (FID) and / or Mass Spectrum (MS) Detectors, Isotope Analysis, Isomeric Analysis (chiral) or High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). However, these techniques cannot always detect complex intended adulteration and this may be why there is limited data available for how big a problem adulteration is. The question is therefore just how damaging is an adulterated oil, to the brand owner or the end user? Apart from the cost and moral implications, there are implications with regulatory compliance. The safety of the finished product composition, self-regulating but applying the risk management and assessments of the globally accepted standards of The International Fragrance Association (IFRA). Equally as damaging are the requirements of the International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) labeling. A finished product containing an essential oil that the formulator believes is genuine but which is not and is adulterated becomes non-compliant, the risks and consequences of such an act become serious and dangerous. What therefore is the solution?
Quality assurance. Trusted source. Raw material quality has to be designed into the product and it cannot be imposed once the production has taken place. The ISO standard 9235:2013 is one that can be adopted in ensuring the raw material meets the requirements for all those involved. The need for the shortest possible supply chain from grower to end user is key in ensuring control is maintained at all stages. Control of origin, harvest and production is achieved through working directly with source, with the growers, the farmers, the co-operatives, the local communities in ensuring partnerships exist. Ethical practices, social responsibility, sustainability awareness and environmental respect are credible factors and allow the provenance of the raw material being brought to market. ProTec Botanica’s position is assured as a trusted source.
PC
References 1 Handbook of Essential Oils: Science,
Technology, and Applications, 2nd edition (Taylor & Francis, 2016), Eds: Hüsnü Can Başer K PhD, Buchbauer G.
2 Guenther E. The Essential Oils Vol II, 1948. 3 Arctander S. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, 1960.
4
https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition /adulteration Accessed March 29, 2018
5
http://www.chompchomp.com/terms/
countnoun.htm’ Accessed March 29, 2018
6
https://tinyurl.com/ycby8pph Accessed March 29, 2018
7
https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry- analysis/essential-oils-market Accessed March 29, 2018
8
https://tinyurl.com/ybnv44wq Accessed March 29, 2018
9
https://tinyurl.com/ycjwj9jl. Accessed March 29, 2018
10
https://tinyurl.com/yajf4t9d Accessed March 29, 2018
11
http://www.intracen.org/itc/sectors/essential- oils/ Accessed March 29, 2018
12
http://www.mintel.com/beauty-trends/ Accessed March 29, 2018
13
https://www.cbi.eu/market-information/natural- ingredients-cosmetics/essential-oils- aromatherapy/ Accessed March 29, 2018 14
http://asq.org/learn-about-quality/quality- assurance-quality- control/overview/
overview.html Accessed March 29, 2018
IN-COSMETICS ON T
MEET US A AT BOOTH S80
www.berkem.com April 2019 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188
