LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 159 A 0.50 0.45 0.40 0.35 0.30 0.25 0.20 Day 0 Day 14 Day 28 Day 56 *
67% average increase of antioxidant capacity
*
stress through an overproduction of ROS, which promotes lipid peroxidation in cell membranes and decreases the skin’s antioxidant capacity.
The ability of bicosome-xanthin to boost
the skin’s antioxidant capacity was evaluated by means of two enzymatic reactions. Skin samples were taken from volunteers’ cheeks using a Corneofix®
F20. B 0.23
After sticking and peeling 10 times, the samples underwent (1) a MAD assay, which measures lipid peroxidation using the thiobarbituric acid (TBA) marker, quantified by spectroscopy at 534 nm; and (2) a FRAP assay, measuring the ferric-reducing ability of plasma by comparing absorbance change at 593 nm. Figure 5 shows that after 56 days of continued use of the cream containing 3% bicosome-xanthin, the skin’s antioxidant capacity increased 67% on average (p = 0.000) (5A), and lipid peroxidation dropped 26% on average (p = 0.000) (5B). The use of bicosome-xanthin increased the skin’s antioxidant capacity in 100% of the volunteers.
0.20 0.18 * 0.15 0.13 27% average
reduction lipid peroxidation
* 0.10 Day 0 Day 14 Day 28 Day 56
Rejuvenation: accelerating epidermis cell renewal
The ageing process causes the cell renewal process to decline. This results, among other effects, in the accumulation of dead cells, the worsening of skin texture, spots and wrinkles. Because it is rich in natural astaxanthin, beta-carotene and lutein, all powerful antioxidant molecules, coupled with its smart skin delivery strategy, bicosome-xanthin is able to impact the rejuvenation of skin cells. In order to evaluate this capacity,
Figure 5: Skin anti-oxidant capacity. Average result of (A) FRAP enzymatic reaction and (B) MAD enzymatic reaction ± SE in different experimental times (n=20), * = p value < 0.05.
by optical microscopy using a fluorescence filter to show the presence of ROS. Fluorescence was quantified through image analysis using image J. Figure 3 shows the fluorescence
microscopy images. The control image (3A) exhibits a low level of fluorescence related with the small amount of ROS in the skin before irradiation. In contrast, after the skin was irradiated, high levels of fluorescence can be seen (3B). However, in the skin treated with bicosome-xanthin prior to irradiation, the level of fluorescence did not increase substantially (3C). The quantification of fluorescence intensity is shown in Figure 4, where it can be observed that treatment with bicosome- xanthin prevented 90% of ROS generation.
April 2019
In vivoefficacy studies The capacity of bicosome-xanthin to improve skin function, promoting detox and age repair, was assessed in vivo in twenty female volunteers, from 35 to 55 years old. The volunteers used a cream containing 3% bicosome-xanthin twice a day for 56 days. Different biophysical parameters were measured at given points in time under dermatological control.
Intensifying detox: increasing the skin’s antioxidant capacity The skin’s health and appearance are influenced by intrinsic (chronological ageing) and extrinsic (e.g. sun exposure, stress, poor nutrition, pollution, etc.) factors. Both have an impact on oxidative
epidermal cell renewal was measured in volunteers using a cream containing 3% bicosome-xanthin on one forearm chosen at random for 15 days. On day 15, a specific concentration of tanning solution with dihydroxyacetone (DHA) was applied under a semi-occlusive patch for 24 hours on both of the volunteers’ forearms. Over the following 14 days, the bicosome-xanthin 3% cream was applied under the same initial conditions. From days 16 to 28, the ITA (Individual
Tipology Angle) value was measured using a Colorimeter CL 400 (Courage & Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany) on both forearms (treated and non-treated). The ITA value is inversely proportional to the pigmentation. Therefore, by monitoring the evolution of tanning with DHA, it is possible to evaluate the epidermis cell renewal. The higher the ITA value, the faster the renewal of the epidermal cells. Figure 6 shows the comparison of cell
renewal on treated and non-treated areas at different points in time. The results show average improvements for ITA values of up to 22% at days 20-24 (p=0.000) for the area
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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