NATURALS 121
Cannabis beauty products: a growing influence
Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
With new superfoods emerging seemingly every week and pressure to find natural actives that deliver noticeable skin and hair benefits, one plant source has been overlooked in many regions because of its association with recreational drug use. But with prohibition lifted in an increasing number of key markets, cannabis-based beauty products are now seeing an enormous spike in popularity. The therapeutic benefits of cannabis have been documented in a wide number of areas, such as; epilepsy, chronic pain, slowing the onset of Alzheimer’s, and improving heart health.1
Widespread
campaigns to enable access to cannabis- derived drugs have perhaps dissolved some of the negative stereotypes associated with cannabis and encouraged a re-evaluation of this powerful and multifunctional ingredient. But focusing on benefits to skin, cannabis again has a wide range of potential attributes. Even discounting the oil itself, hemp fibres are used in cosmetic powders for rheology modifying effects (see Natpure Fibers from Sensient). The oil has been shown to have anti-ageing, anti-acne and skin sensitivity benefits.2
Extraction and delivery methods The choice of extraction method when attempting to isolate compounds of interest is critical, and different processes result in different end products. SiliCycle specialises in extraction and purification process engineering. Silica gel is a core technology developed by SiliCycle that allows the ultra-purification of biologically active molecules from a myriad of biomasses. The same technology can also be tailored to generate the functional microspheres, in silica™, sequestering and protecting volatile or labile components to ensure stability and controlled release. Based in Canada, SiliCycle has access to
controlled sources of hemp and cannabis from which various fractions such as seed oil, water-soluble extracts (roots, leaves) and shive hydrolysates can be derived. Also, its silica gel technology makes
April 2019
possible the ultra-purification of cannabidiol and other bio-active phytocannabinoids present in lesser amounts while removing potential contaminants. French company, Biolie, supply Hemp Seed Oil using an enzymatic extraction process. Hemp Seed Oil is a natural skin and hair care active ingredient, rich in polyphenols, vitamin E, fatty acids omega 6 and 9, extracted from hemp seed via Biolie’s enzymatic extraction technology. Legislative changes and a collective awareness of the need to limit pollution have led to the development of new processes, including processes that are completely free of any solvent use: extraction in an aqueous medium, extraction with supercritical CO2
, and
development of new physical separation technologies. Biolie’s method is an alternative technology and meets these regulatory and environmental constraints. The alternative method consists of placing the vegetable raw material to be treated, water and an enzymatic mixture in a stirred and thermostated tank. The innovation lies in the adaptation of the enzyme mixtures to the biomass to be treated and the targeted products to be extracted. Salvona has recently announced a new delivery system of CBD, SalSphere CBD (SS
CBD). This technology is a true water suspension of sub-micron spheres containing pure CDB. The encapsulation is based on 100% natural ingredients. SalSphere CBD is used as a raw material for cosmetic and therapeutic applications aimed at assisting consumers with age defying and reducing skin redness and inflammation, among many other skin issues. The encapsulation is designed to enable easy formulation and processing. The technology ensures fast absorption into the skin while maintaining a good stability profile.
CBD
It is important to be clear on the active component of interest here and the fact that it is not the psychoactive compound tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). Instead, cannabidiol (CBD) and has a number of skin benefits when applied topically. It is obtained from a different part of the plant to THC and is generally regarded as having no mind-altering qualities. However, more research is being conducted on its effects on skin and other health benefits. CEO of testing company EOS Scientific, Simon Manthorpe, spoke to Personal Care about the rise in CBD products and its potential benefits: “Whilst the number of users of CBD is increasing, so is the number
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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