16 OPINION
It is ‘holistically designed’ because all its components are interacting to deliver performance: it is not just a combination of ingredients that have an individual activity, but a synergistic interdependence of parts that deliver holistic benefits. From anti-ageing to better-ageing, from giving the idea that one’s wrinkles have disappeared to imparting a sense of increased self-confidence that makes one see their wrinkles as the beautiful signs of experience, from merely delivering superficial topical benefits to changing the emotional sphere of the human psyche. From consumers’ goods to the goodness of science for human beings. Utopic thinking? Maybe not!
Dr Barbara Olioso MRSC, The Green Chemist Consultancy
Barbara gained her PhD in Chemistry from the University of Venice, and since then has gained 19 years’ experience as a formulator
developing natural and organic cosmetics for
international premium spa and professional hair care brands among others. When I think of long term future trends, I think of the rise of the millennials and how they are affecting the cosmetic market and society in general. Their idealistic views on helping the planet and the environment and living longer, healthier are embedded in their lifestyle and purchasing power. Even though this young generation may seem idealistic, they are also savvy and expect some kind of proof that assures them that what they hear is true. This trust issue, which has been going on in a similar way with the food industry, catalyses the use of certifications, from organic and natural ones, to vegan, sustainable, even Halal. On this point, Laboratoire Garnier has recently announced the launch of Cosmos Organic products, proving that organic certification is now going to spread into the mass market. The millennials’ ideals also push for more
transparency in general, as well as for social and environmental accountability. There are product claims based on sustainability concepts, as well as companies that publish their sustainability report on a regular basis to fulfil the consumers’ need for transparency and to maintain or even gain their trust.
Millenials are very comfortable with IT; new technologies can support a transparent supply chain for raw materials and possibly finished products, for example Blockchain and Chainpoint could also have great impact on the trust levels. It will be interesting to see
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
if other disruptive technologies will appear and affect the industry. If you wish to know more about these
future trends, from organic and sustainable certifications, to blockchain and more, visit the sustainability corner at in-cosmetics Global in Paris; this is a space to share, inspire and define sustainable future for the whole cosmetic industry.
Dr Katerina Steventon – Skin Care Consultant
Dr Katerina
Steventon is a skin care scientist with substantial experience of working at the clinical, commercial and research interface. Katerina has an MSc in
Clinical Biochemistry, a PhD in Transdermal Absorptions (phytoestrogens in post- menopausal skin) and global working experience with Shiseido (Japan), La Prairie (Switzerland), and Smith & Nephew Wound Management (UK).
As market and consumer trends change and technology as well as research methods advance rapidly, two essential facts remain the same: skin is ‘a sensory organ’ and its integrity is the Holy Grail of developing effective skin care.
In the quest to discover a new molecule or a new influencer-driven indie brand, it might be forgotten that the scientific research carried out by global blue-chip companies has progressed beyond the regulatory definitions of skin care that can deliver an effect over and above the upheld category definitions that are required to change. Facial skin is a unique front line barrier,
directly exposed to the external environment and often affected by subclinical inflammation. The skin surface is an
ecosystem colonised by microbial communities that are diverse and complex, considered to be harmless or commensal organisms that inhibit skin colonisation by pathogens. There is a dynamic relationship between the skin and its microbiome; emotional and sensory signalling to the brain and the link to the gut represent only a starting point of scientists unravelling the complex pathways. In the multi-faceted world of skin care, clinical and commercial success is in the hands of impressionable consumers with very different facial skin, rarely giving a true efficacy comparison. My unique approach to skin care, combining hands-on clinical expertise and science to deliver results through unconventional skin care product combinations and evidence-based touch, provides valuable insights. I run a private integrative practice working with natural touch-based therapies and a functional approach to acne. Evidence-based touch techniques are still only seen as a marketing initiative, rather than a scientifically devised skin care application process that can strongly enhance the consumer wellbeing. Providing consumer feedback on skin feel and sensory attributes of skin care products in conceptual stages of product development and prior to launch is essential. However, future research should focus on integrating the science and consumer behaviour; e.g. facial mapping of non-invasive biophysical parameters across skin types: functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) or electroencephalography (EEG) mapping of the relationship between facial expressions; skin feel and touch for mental wellbeing or alternative interventions to Botox, preventing addictive use and inhibition of emotional processing through mindfulness and relaxation. Open innovation and nurturing research expertise is essential for the future of our business. In the words of one of my esteemed British healthcare innovators, Dr Mark Richardson,1
innovation means
successfully bringing something novel into the hands of the customer, addressing what they value or need and satisfying this in a unique way or for the first time. Developing a deep understanding the needs of the customers - often beyond articulation - and expanding the product beyond its technical remit to resonate with a customer, delivers real innovation. Beyond a singular understanding of the next tissue marker, technology strategy or a consumer trend, it is the integration of world-class research with consumer-focused stories and paradigms that delivers innovative, efficacious and loved skin care products.
PC
References 1 Richardson M. In: The Future of Innovation,
Gower, 2009. April 2019
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