94 SILICONES


Table 1: Formulation for Moisturiser Phase


FC367


A Water


C10-30 Alkyl acrylates crosspolymer


Glycerine


Xanthan Gum Na2 B


EDTA


Cetyl Alcohol Coconut Oil Isododecane


Ethylhexyl Palmitate


Caprylic/capric Triglycerides


PEG-100 Stearate GMS


Cetearyl Methicone Shea Butter


Ethyl Methicone Polysilicone 11


PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone


Trimethylsiloxysilicate Sweet Almond Oil DMDM Hydantoin Silica C


Mica TEA


Tocopherol


Retinal Palmitate VE Acetate Total


Procedure: 1. Into a cleaned and sanitized stainless container equipped with a propeller mixer, disperse


hydroxyl hexyl cellulose in water until fully hydrated. Add the rest of ingredients of Part A one by one, mix until homogeneous. Then heat up to 75 ~ 80°C. 2. In a separate clean and sanitized vessel, add all the ingredients of Part B, and heat up to 75 ~ 80 °C, mix well until uniform. 3. Add Part B into Part A slowly and continue stirring. 4. Keep the temperature at 75 ~ 80°C for 5 minutes and cool down until 45°C, then add Part C one by one slowly and continue stirring and cool down to room temperature. 5. Homogenize the batch for 1 minutes at 2,000 rpm


 Total Sensory FC267 D FC267 C FC267 B FC267 A Control 40.0 50.0 60.0 Figure 1: Sensory modification by silicone addition. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 70.0 80.0 90.0


Table 1 (opposite) provides the formulations evaluated.


April 2019


73.60 0.30 3.00


0.20 0.10


2.00 5.00 5.00 2.00


1.70 1.20


1.00 1.17 0.50


FC367A FC367B FC367C FC367D


73.60 0.30 3.00


0.20 0.10


2.00 5.00 5.00 2.00


1.70 1.20


1.00 1.17 0.50


73.60 0.30 3.00


0.20 0.10


2.00 5.00 5.00 2.00


1.70 1.20


1.00 1.17 0.50


73.60 0.30 3.00


0.20 0.10


2.00 5.00 5.00 2.00


1.70 1.20


1.00 1.17 0.50


73.60 0.30 3.00


0.20 0.10


2.00 5.00 5.00 2.00


1.70 1.20


1.00 1.17 0.50


0 1000 0 01 0


0 0010


0.60 0.30


0 0001 0.60 0.30


0.60 0.30


0.50 0.13 0.05 0.05 0.10 100


0.50 0.13 0.05 0.05 0.10 100


0.50 0.13 0.05 0.05 0.10 100


0.60 0.30


0.50 0.13 0.05 0.05 0.10 100


formulations to provide new products with different aesthetics.


Importance of proper sensory Steve Herman pointed out in 2008 that sensory is key to commercial cusses for cosmetic products. He stated:4 “It is necessary to formulate a product for pleasing sensory attributes and to confirm the results with meaningful tests. Emollient properties and rheology are obviously important formulation parameters for skin application. Some results can be obtained with instruments, but expert panels and consumer testing can be crucial to determining the market requirements for commercial success.”


0.60 0.30


0.50 0.13 0.05 0.05 0.10 100


The initial factor that was shown to influence sensory is the emollient oil phase. This dependence of feel on marketability is the reason there are so many esters and triglycerides sold in our industry. Herman continues: Esters form the largest family of emollient oils, and they have some predictable properties. As chain length increases, they become less irritating, have a heavier feel, and are harder to emulsify. An increase in branching raises the dry feel and lowers the viscosity. Unsaturation increases skin penetration and makes emulsification more difficult. Hydroxyl groups make them more water-soluble and easier to emulsify.4 Dr Wiechers’ work resulted in the amazing conclusion that the predominant contributor to variance in skin feel could be attributed to the emulsifier selection. Contribution to skin feel attributed to the emulsifier was pegged at 74%, whereas emollient selection showed to control 12% of the total variance. Large portions of the emulsifier skin feel control was seen in the important appearance, pick-up, and rub-out phases.6 We now propose that other surface active materials like oil soluble silicone polymers also have a dramatic effect on sensorial properties. We also believe that this is accomplished by the same mechanism Dr Wiechers observed, namely partition at the interface of the silicone polymer, altering feel. The formulations shown here and the effect of additives to sensory, shows that modifications to formulations using minimally disruptive formulation techniques will result in new aesthetics in old formulations.


Moisturiser Objective: To modify the control formulation to make it feel softer, drier, and provide a silky clean feel to the skin to which it was applied by adding oil soluble silicone polymers.


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