14 OPINION
sensitivity and allergy. The advance of the digital world may have consumers of the future using cosmetic Nespresso-type machines, to make single-use personal cosmetic products, selected by Artificial Intelligence (AI), which match their precise needs for the coming 24 hours. If you think that is a step too far then go into any large beauty outlet and play with the amazing smart mirrors, which, with mind-boggling realism, show the colour cosmetic you have in your hand, applied to your mirror image. Smile and purse your lips, then move your head side to side to decide if you like your new look before you buy the products. And it is not only colour cosmetics that is exploring the possibilities of the new technologies. This augmented reality (AR) is already allowing consumers to compare hair colours and even create their perfect shade of hair colour. This game-changing retail-theatre is fun and replaces messy unhygienic testers while drawing consumers to the brands behind the smart technology. Global brands are investing heavily in the uses of AR and AI. L’Oréal recently launch AI powered skin care diagnosis developed by ModiFace, which assesses the signs of ageing. The smart HiMirror, with no brand allegiances, makes it easy to appraise your facial skin quality at home. Similar technologies for home use can be found on smart phones, home computers etc. These smart gadgets, like lifestyle fitness trackers, report improvements (or not), and so enable consumers to test products’ efficacy on themselves. Through the next 10 years, we will see smart digital-gadgetry evolving and with the Internet of Things, (IoT), increasing connectivity, algorithms will be making sense of the huge amount of beauty data. Artificial Intelligence will be finding efficacy trends where product X on skin their type Y, used Z times a day, results in a clear more youthful complexion. Algorithms will identify outstanding formulas and ingredients, to help formulators create even better products. The digital assistants of the future will use this information to offer meaningful beauty advice and give personalised product recommendations. AI will know from smart fitness trackers etc., where we are in the world. AI can combine information in our appointments calendars, with our behaviour patterns and with local weather predictions, to recommend and remind consumers to, for example, apply sunscreen at the optimum SPF and frequency.
The digital world will evolve and incorporate more sensors, so consumers in 2020 will be using beauty products under their optimum conditions. These products will be more ethically made than today. They will have negligible impact on the environment and by working in empathy
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
with the strengthened microbiome, be more effective. And maybe it is not so farfetched after all, to have AI recommending the bespoke products being made by the Nespresso-type machines of the future.
Dr Theresa Callaghan - Callaghan Consulting International
Theresa has extensive
experience of skin care product
development with companies such as Unilever and Johnson &
Johnson, as well as working on the ingredient and
testing sectors with Evonik and proDERM respectively. Theresa launched Callaghan Consulting in 2008. With many consumer, legislative and innovative changes during the 2010s the 2020s are set to be just as exciting as well as challenging. Clearly the challenges I believe will centre on the sustainability of cosmetics - not just in terms of packaging and ingredients but also in terms of our ethos - as consumers and as an industry. Here I mean addressing consumer vanity, slave labour economies for cheap cosmetics, our throw-away culture, resource production, and the sheer number of products on the market - is there really room for yet another me-too-product? Opportunities lie in the 2020s (and have
already started) in addressing some of these challenges - and they are being driven on a global scale. As with the fashion industry our own personal ethos in terms of the cosmetics we use will challenge all of us and hopefully drive the industry to focus clearly on the real needs of the consumer not just their whim and Instagram selfie opportunities. Research into new and existing
ingredients will continue I hope at a steady pace, though I think after more than 30 years in the industry ‘reinventing the wheel’ may still be with us as will legislators playing their catch-up role. Personal care needs should focus not just on basic product requirements, but also continue to involve the impact of the environment on the body - sun, pollution, other light sources, microbiome understanding, diet, etc. With the globalisation of cosmetics, newer developing countries will no doubt be joining - especially increasing raw materials from Africa - providing us with an opportunity to develop global harmonisation in terms of legislation and safety concerns. This will be a challenge but we need it! Close to my heart, properly developed claims in terms of consumer
insight, and clinical studies should evolve with new method developments growing, and hopefully used as a guide for legislators in terms of claims development requirements.
Last but not least, I hope the industry finds a way to effectively communicate with consumers - our industry has never really achieved this. While it is quite good at its own within-industry communications, it falls flat with the consumer as illustrated by the never ending fake news, and even scaremongering, damaging our industry. We need to address this.
Emily Cullen - Trends Manager, Foresight Factory
Foresight Factory are consumer trends and data analysts. They use trends to unlock answers to
strategic business questions in Audience Targeting, Branding and
NPD. Their powerful algorithms and proprietary data identify which trends matter most so brands know where and how to act first.
Choice is exploding in the beauty and personal care sector. We can add boosters to existing products to enhance their efficacy, custom mix our own creations at home, fill out questionnaires about lifestyle and needs for tailored recommendations or even give a sample of our DNA in exchange for a one-of-a-kind blend. What is more, brands are increasingly seeking to furnish us with recommendations of personalised beauty products, steering us towards those that (they believe) will help us get the best results.
The beauty of personalisation and curation services is that they allow consumers to feel like they have access to a wide range of choice, without the need to assess every option on their own. By 2016, 47% of our global sample said they would be interested in a beauty service that created personalised cosmetics based on their skin type, a figure which rises to 62% among women. Appetite for this kind of innovation is only set to grow as consumers become savvier about the products they are putting into and onto their bodies, and educate themselves further on their skin care and makeup needs. We predict that by 2025, 68% of global consumers will have or will be interested to customise a product in- store.
Meanwhile brands are responding to the need for individual solutions in droves, signalling that personalisation is accessible
April 2019
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