SKIN CARE 57


Barrier repair activity of Elula Kalahari melon seed oil


 Imran Moten - Kupanda Ltd, South Africa Michèle Benhaïm - Kupanda Ltd, Cyprus Theresa Callaghan - Callaghan Consulting International, Germany


Elula Kalahari Melon Seed Oil (Kupanda Ltd) from Citrullus lanatus (INCI: Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil) originates from the western Kalahari region of Namibia and Botswana, where it can be found in the wild in a diversity of forms together with other Citrullus species (Fig 1). It is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family, of which pumpkins and melons are widely known. The fruits and seeds are used in different ways in different countries1


C. lanatus is often used as a source of drinking water. The seeds are commonly roasted and salted for nutritional purposes. Known since the time of ancient Egyptians, the oil has been anecdotally used to care for the skin to maintain its healthy appearance.11 The oil is light in texture and therefore considered a highly suitable emollient for cosmetic formulations.


Dry skin


Everyone at some point experiences dry (xerotic) skin. It is a common occurrence, often worse during the winter months, and is a consequence of environmental exposure as well as issues relating to certain skin conditions with prevalence for dryness. The moisturisation capabilities of a cosmetic product can provide relief for those with the problems of flaky, itching or irritated and dry skin, and it is this moisturisation sector of the industry that is enormously successful. Emollient products containing various oils are essential to any moisturising formulation, and may vary depending on the formulators approach. Oils rich in fatty acids from which barrier lipids (ceramides) are formed are sought after, especially when combined with attractive sensorial properties.


Unique lipid content


Fatty acids in Elula Kalahari Melon Seed Oil are represented by a uniquely large proportion (± 75%) of linoleic acid as compared to saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids (which are more or less in equal proportion). As with


April 2019


many seed oils, seasonal variances naturally occur1


in the exact amount of each fatty and in the Kalahari region in Africa,


acid. This compares with other high linoleic acid containing oils (Table1a ) such as Buhle Manketti Seed Oil (Kupanda Ltd) and Evening Primrose Oil. The high content linoleic acid oils make them greatly important for skin care applications from dry skin conditions to adjuvants for acne and atopic dermatitis products. Furthermore, there may also be opportunities for linoleic acid in hair care.3,18 Fatty acids, mainly linoleic acid, isolated from Cucurbitaceae seed oils have also been used in medicine for their anti- inflammatory properties.4, 5


Fragmented data


Despite the vast nutritional use and benefits of KMSO generally, little detail on its cosmetic benefits is available. The overall lipid profile Elula KMSO clearly shows that it has potential benefit for skin barrier functioning with applications in a variety of skin products, from dryness through to so-called anti-ageing products. Its antioxidant nature also supports these suggestions. Despite its clear application potential in cosmetics there are no concrete studies backing up any claims attributed to this oil in skin care applications.17 Furthermore, the literature is very highly fragmented and animal-centred.


Antioxidant content C. lanatus is a fruit endowed with high natural anti-oxidant capacity,8


which is an


important qualitative factor for consideration in cosmetic use. The reported high vitamin E level in C. lanatus may indicate pharmaceutical and cosmetic use due to its protective nature against oxidative stress.6,7


(KMSO) and thereby Elula KMSO is also rich in tocols and phytosterols.9


Kalahari melon seed oil As with Buhle


Manketti Seed Oil (BMSO), of the tocopherols, gamma-tocopherol is predominant, followed by alpha-tocopherol (Table 1b). The main phytosterols are beta- sitosterol and squalene.9


A smaller amount


of phenolic acids have also been detected. Phenolic acids also have antioxidant activity (the main ones being vanillic acid, caffeic acid, and gallic acid). These key so-called secondary metabolites exhibit highly efficient peroxyl-radical scavenging activity.10-12


Linoleic acid & barrier function Linoleic acid belongs to the group of essential fatty acids. These are also called exogenous fatty acids, because the human body does not synthesise them and it is necessary to obtain them from food.13


Since


they are precursors of compounds that lead to the generation of anti-inflammatory eicosanoids, linoleic acid contributes to the proper functioning of many tissues of the human body. It also14


plays an important Figure 1: Elula Kalahari Melon Seeds and Oil.


role in the proper functioning of the skin, notably the stratum corneum, in which it is one of the key components of the ceramides building barrier function. It has been shown that the presence of linoleic acid prevents skin from peeling and the loss of epidermal water, while at the same time improving skin softness and elasticity and regulating the process of epidermal keratinisation. High levels of linoleic acid strengthens the epidermal barrier, and normalises excessive loss of water through the epidermis, and improves smoothness, after both topical and oral applications.14 A deficiency of linoleic acid, which is


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