90 HAIR CARE
V21 shows similar results to dimethicone in terms of performance and sensoriality. The hairdressers found the formula containing the new emollient V21 as easy to apply and rinse as the one with dimethicone. The ease of combing was also facilitated with both formulas. More important is the sensory part. Dimethicone is well known for the gliding sensation it brings to wet hair but also the softness, shine, and suppleness it gives to hair after drying. The professionals evaluated the new emollient V21 to be as good as dimethicone in improving hair appearance and touch. Wet combing was also tested with an
in vitro method (using the Diastron MTT device) and showed that the tested oils (the new emollient V21, the new vegetable emollient L15, dimethicone 350cps and mineral oil) all decrease by approximately 90% the required combing force. This test was done on damaged Caucasian hair tresses, treated with a rinse-off formula containing 2% of oil.
Hair strength
The new emollient and the new vegetable emollient also have an action on the core of the hair fiber. They significantly repair damaged hair fiber after only one application in a rinse-off conditioner formula. The evaluation of the formula’s capacity to reduce hair damage was performed in vitro (hair fibers Scanning Electron Microscopy image) by counting the number of damaged cuticles. All the tested oils (the new emollient V21, the new vegetable emollient L15 and dimethicone 350cps), incorporated at 2% in the formulas decrease the percentage of damaged cuticles by approximately 50%. The new vegetable emollient L15 is the perfect ally to protect hair fiber from repeated mechanical stress. Tested with the Flexabrasion method, it shows its ability to reinforce the hair fibre, making it more resistant to mechanical stress
60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Untreated
Dimethicone (350cps)
EMOGREENTM L15
Untreated Hair Tresses Treated Hair Tresses 38 * 37 *
36
35 1% EMOSMARTTM V21 1% EMOGREENTM L15 1% Phenyl Trimethicone * Bring significant hair shine in comparison with untreated hair tress (p<0.05) Figure 1: Hair shine measurement (Caucasian Hair - Rinse-off).
Reference After Treatment
120 105 90 75 60 45 30 15 0
-90%
-92%
-91%
-91%
Figure 2: Wet combing (Caucasian Hair - Rinse-off).
(bending, friction and abrasion solicitations) over a steel wire. The results of the new vegetable emollient L15 are significantly better than those obtained with cyclopentasiloxane and isohexadecane on treated hair fibres.
Did you say specific hair needs? Oils are also used in hair care treatments to prevent frizz or to control hair volume in
extreme humidity conditions. Tested on Brazilian hair at 80% hygrometry over a 24 hour period with a brand new 3D measurement protocol, the new emollient and the new vegetable emollient give very good results. A rinse-off formula containing 2% of the new vegetable emollient L15 shows the same effect as dimethicone to control volume and frizz effect after only one application. The new emollient V21, is
approximately -50%*
Untreated hair tress
EMOGREENTM V21
* Significantly less damaged cuticles in comparison with the untreated hair tress (p<0.05) Figure 3: Fiber repair (Caucasian Hair - Rinse-off). PERSONAL CARE EUROPE April 2019
Treated hair tress
Detached cuticles/total cuticles (%)
Hair Shine Scoring Mean Combing Force Required (gram force)
EMOSMARTTM
V21
Dimethicone (350cps)
Mineral Oil
EMOGREENTM
L15
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