HAIR CARE 89
An alternative to silicone for hair care
Sabrina Mizael – Seppic, France
The cosmetic market is in a continual search for more innovative, functional and environmentally-friendly ingredients. This statement is especially true for the hair care market, seeking alternatives for silicone oils. Globally, the number of silicone-free shampoo launches has increased in recent years: 56% of the shampoos launched do not contain silicone. Moreover, 13% claim “silicone-free” (source Mintel).
Some of these mythical oils are now limited
by regulation. This is the case of both D4 and D5. These materials are now limited to 0.1% in the rinse-off products due to their very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB) nature. D4 is also considered a persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) substance. In addition to being non-biodegradable, silicone oils also have an impact on the environment due to their industrial production process which has a high carbon footprint. Emosmart™ and Emogreen™, which have
received several industry awards, are readily biodegradable and endowed with sensory attractiveness and hair care efficiency. These two emollient ranges respond to both market and consumers’ demand.
Readily biodegradable and high purity alkanes Emosmart and Emogreen are readily
biodegradable, fluid, inert oils. The patented production process enables the creation of high purity products. These neutral alkanes (inert and non-polar) are compatible with extreme formulation conditions. They are not sensitive to oxidation, pH change or oxidising/reducing media.
The Emogreen range is based on sustainable vegetable biomass (the non GMO initial raw material is traceable to plantations and covered by a Mass Balance certificate according to RSPO). The range is COSMOS approved and NATRUE certified. Table 1 details the main characteristics of
the six different grades composing these two ranges.
One step closer to sustainable and responsible cosmetics Emosmart (now referred to as ‘the new emollient’) and Emogreen (now referred to as ‘the new vegetable emollient’) have a very low impact on the environment. One of the main benefits of the range is that they are readily biodegradable and present a negligible carbon footprint in comparison with silicone oils (the new emollient reduces the carbon footprint by 85%, while the new vegetable emollient goes further with a 115% reduction).
Table 1: Emosmart and Emogreen ranges main characteristics EMOSMARTTM
L15 EMOSMARTTM INCI NMARE Biodegradability Green labels Appearance
Viscosity at 20°C (mPa.s)
Recommended use level
4.5 0.5-50% 8.5 0.5-60% Clear and colorless liquid 13.5 0.5-80% 26 0.5-100% 4.5 0.5-50% 9 0.5-50% * Natural & Renewable April 2019 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE C13-15 Alkane C15-19 Alkane L19 EMOSMARTTM Hair beauty
For the past five years, one of the three most used claim for shampoos, hair treatments and conditioners is hair shine. Whatever the hair type, ethnicity, culture and region, consumers are all looking for shinier hair; a synonym of healthy hair. The new emollient and the new vegetable emollient are proven to bring shine to hair. The test consists of only one application of classical rinse-off conditioner formulas containing only 1% of the new emollient V21,
The new vegetable emollient L15 or phenyl trimethicone (hair shine reference). Both the new emollient and the new vegetable emollient deliver significant hair shine in comparison with the untreated hair tress, however phenyl trimethicone does not significantly increase hair shine. If shine is the first sign of healthy hair, hair suppleness and manageability could be the next criteria. During an evaluation performed by three hairdressers on fifteen volunteers, the new emollient V21 (2%) demonstrated its ability to replace 2% silicone oil (dimethicone) in a rinse-off formula. The the new emollient V21 formula was selected by the professionals as their favorite product; the one they would prefer to use in their hair salon. The new emollient
V21 EMOSMARTTM C18-21 Alkane Readily Biodegradable
ECOCERT, COSMOS & NATRUE
ECOCERT, COSMOS & NATRUE
C28 EMOGREENTM C21-28 Alkane C15-1 Alkane*
L15 EMOGREENTM C15-19 Alkane*
L19
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