160 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS bicosome-xanthin Control 45
Up to 22% increase in ITA value
40 35 59 30 58 25 20 0 16 18 20 22 Days 24 26 28 57 Day 0 Day 14 Day 28 Day 56 * 61 * * 60 * *
3% average increase
*
Figure 6: Epidermal cell renewal. Average ITA ± SE at different experimental times (n=20), * = p value < 0.05.
treated with bicosome-xanthin 3% cream. Of the 20 volunteers, 95% showed
greater improvement of ITA values on treated areas.
Brightening the skin
In addition to making skin clearer by accelerating cell renewal, the fact that bicosome-xanthin boosts the skin’s rejuvenation processes is also reflected in the skin’s brightness. Brightness arises from light reflection in the skin, which is improved when skin imperfections are softened and skin colour is more homogeneous. Skin brightness corresponds to the uniformity of the skin in terms of colouring and texture.1 The improvement to skin brightness was shown by parameter L* measured on three different areas of each volunteer’s cheek using a Colorimeter®
CL 400 (Courage &
Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). The greater parameter L*, the brighter and more luminous the skin is. After 56 days of continued use of the cream containing 3% bicosome-xanthin, parameter L* increased 3% (p=0.000), as shown in Figure 7. This improved brightness was observed in 76% of the volunteers. Figure 8 shows the difference in brightness for a volunteer before and after treatment.
Strengthening skin barrier function: decreasing water loss
The integrity of the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC) is essential to control transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Proper organisation of the SC lipids decreases TEWL and determines barrier function. Previous studies demonstrated that bicosomes reinforce the organisation of the SC, given their capacity to provide structured lipids to the skin.9
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Figure 7: Skin brightness. Average L* value ± SE at different experimental times (n=20), * = p value < 0.05.
In this experiment, the efficacy of bicosome-xanthin was assessed by measuring the volunteers’ TEWL parameter with a Tewameter®
TM 300 (Courage +
Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). The average TEWL values at four experimental time points are shown in Figure 9. An average decrease of 10% (p = 0.024) was achieved after 56 days. This result is even more significant if we take into account that the TEWL values before the experiment were already of healthy skin (less than 15). In total, 81% of the volunteers improved the barrier function with the treatment with bicosome- xanthin 3% cream.
Reverting sagging: improving skin firmness The slowdown of the synthesis of structural proteins in the dermis is related to the worsening of skin’s mechanical properties, which results in sagging and the
Day 0
appearance of wrinkles. The fact that bicosome-xanthin is rich in powerful antioxidants, fatty acids and proteins make this superfood highly powerful in counteracting and reverting the decline of protein synthesis. Its deep-skin delivery with bicosomes allows the skin to use all these nutrients to improve biology where needed, resulting in comprehensive rejuvenation. Skin firmness was assessed by measuring the resistance of the skin to suction using a Cutometer®
dual MPA 580
580 (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). Measurements of the R0 parameter were performed on the surface of volunteers’ cheeks using a vacuum of 450 mbar in 10 cycles of 2 seconds of suction and 2 seconds of relaxation. The lower the R0 value, the firmer the skin. The improvement of skin firmness after
Day 56
Figure 8: Visioface®
macro photographs of a volunteer showing a relevant improvement on skin April 2019
ITA
Brightness L* value
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