166 TEXTURES
Formulation 4: Oil-Gel Make-Up Remover S0203 Phase Trade Name (Supplier) Activemol GC (Innospec) Sunsolv BOS (Innospec)
INCI
Hydroxypropylene Carbonate Butyloctyl Salicylate
DUB ININ (Stearinerie Dubois) Isononyl Isononanoate Coconut oil (Aroma Zone) Jojoba oil (Aroma Zone) Empilan®
Cocos nucifera oil Dermofeel®
DPHS (Innospec) Viscolid
(Drstraetmans) Vitamin E
Monoi (Aroma Zone)
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate
Hydrogenated Vegeatble Oil Tocopherol
Parfum
is a Day & Night serum with a fluid and light texture. Marine extracts provide anti-aging, protecting and soothing properties and the formulation delivers quick absorption and a non-greasy after-feel.
Oils and jelly oil textures With the trend on the rise for high oil containing products and the need for different types of textures, Innospec has formulated some innovative products and textures containing key ingredients that illustrate this trend.
Oil and jelly oil ingredients
Activemol GC is an odorless solvent with moisturising properties. Sunsolv®
BOS is a
versatile multifunctional ingredient, an ester of salicylic acid and a branched C-12 alcohol, which improves aesthetics and performance of suncreens, skin care and colour cosmetics. It is highly effective as a sunscreen active solubiliser and photostabiliser, inorganic pigment wetter, emollient, moisturiser and carrier.
Prototype formulation
Oil-Gel Make-Up Remover S0203 (Formulation 4) is a powerful waterproof makeup remover, which requires no need to rinse and leaves the skin feeling nourished with a soft and nice skin-feel.
Bouncy Bubble Bath S0192
Formulation 5: Bouncy Bubble Bath S0192 Phase Trade Name (Supplier)
A B
C D E
F G Aqua Glycerin
Pureact WS-70 (Innospec) Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact Gluco C (Innospec) Coco-glucoside Empigen®
BS/FA (Innospec) Cocamidopropyl Betaine Arylpon TT (BASF)
Lamesoft PO 65 (BASF) Dermosoft®
1388 ECO (DrStraetmans)
PEG/PPG-120/10 Trimethylolpropane Trioleate (and) Laureth-2
Coco-glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate
Sodium Anisate (and) Sodium Leuvinate (and) Glycerin
Lollipop (Azur Fragrances) Fragrance Citric acid
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE INCI %
q.s. to 100 2.00 28.6 8.0
10.0 1.0 1.5
3.0 0.5
q.s. to pH 4.5-5.2 % 9.80
26.00 28.00 23.00 4.00 4.30
4.00 0.60
q.s.
The formulation was tested against a benchmark oil gel eye makeup remover and showed superior cleaning efficacy.
Latest crazes Creating a new formulation with an interesting texture can be quite simple when using the correct ingredients at the tight levels. Following we show a range of products with unusual textures and a variety of sensorial appeals.
Ingredients for the latest crazes Pureact WS-70 is 85% naturally-derived, and was specifically designed for ease of handling. It is a high flash-foaming mild anionic surfactant for transparent formulations at extreme pH. From the same range, Gluco C is a mild, naturally derived surfactant that is easy- to-process.
Empigen BS/FA is an amphoteric surfactant compatible with anionic, nonionic, cationic and other amphoteric surfactants and is stable over a wide pH range, providing the formulator with a flexible ingredient for use in many toiletry and detergent applications. It offers low eye and skin irritancy; a conditioning effect on the hair and the skin; and abundant stable foam; superior foaming and detergency in the presence of soap and hard water.
Prototype formulation Bouncy Bubble Bath S0192 (Formulation 5) is a bubble bath and shower gel that has been developed to make cleansing fun. It has an unusual ‘rubbery’ and ‘bouncy’ texture due to the special mixture of Innospec surfactants and the rheology modifier used. It gives copious, stable and luxuriant foam and is easy to prepare using a convenient, cold process.
Even more examples Bubblegum Jelly Wash is a jelly wash with a thick string-like jelly texture which is fun to use. Sea Salt Hair & Scalp Treatment Shampoo is an innovative, revitalising salt scrub treatment for the hair and scalp that is formulated to allow suspension of coarse salt granules and natural oils, providing a paste structured shampoo. Unicorn Sparkle Exfoliating Body Butter highlights mild surfactants providing gentle cleansing while exfoliating beads gently buff the skin for an even softer skin-feel.
Conclusion These formulations give brief insight into some of the current personal care market trends and how it is possible to create these effects using high quality ingredients. Texture is a valuable route to making
formulations stand out from the crowd, memorable and pleasant for consumers to use and can be used to enhance a brand’s position in the marketplace. Innospec products and our technical know-how, can create the ‘wow factor’ your customers crave.
PC April 2019
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