64 SKIN PROTECTION Lutein


Lipid polar nead Faty acid chain ß-carotene


Figure 2: Carotenoids are incorporated in the lamellar lipid bilayer of the skin barrier and of cellular membranes. While carotenes without hydrophilic moieties are situated in the fatty acid chain layer, xanthophylls like lutein are integrated in the membrane with the polar head facing outwards.


frequencies used by mobile phones (GSM- 900, GSM-1800, UMTS, LTE) may damage DNA, proteins and lipids3


and that the 2.4


GHz WiFi or Bluetooth radiation in the microwave range can significantly impact on gene expression.4


By exposing our skin


to all these artificial forms of radiation, we could well be subject to digital skin ageing, a new threat to otherwise healthy skin. We need to take precautions to combat this novel kind of hazard.


The balance of intrinsic ROS-production and elimination


In every skin cell, atmospheric oxygen is converted to water in the respiratory chain of the mitochondria. This is the main intrinsic ROS source which is under tight control. It is generally the case that free radicals are unable to escape the respiratory chain.5


However, there can be


This free radical is converted by the enzyme sodium oxide dismutase (SOD) to hydrogen peroxide. The level of hydrogen peroxide is an indicator of the intrinsic ROS stress level of cells. In presence of metal ions, hydrogen peroxide can dissociate into two very reactive hydroxyl radicals that can do serious harm to lipids and cellular components - consequently leading to skin barrier damage and premature skin ageing. To eliminate this threat, the cells employ


‘leakage’ of electrons and these react with atmospheric oxygen to create superoxide anions.6,7


an efficient ROS defence system. This is controlled inter alia by PPARγ, a nuclear receptor that increases levels of the enzyme catalase to eliminate hydrogen peroxide.8 Catalase converts hydrogen peroxide into non-dangerous end products like water and


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Absorption at 350 – 800 nm (AU) UV/VIS spectrum of RADICARE ®


–GOLD


1.2 1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0


UVA Blue Green Yellow Orange Red IRA


400


500


600 Wavelenght (nm)


Figure 3: The UV/VIS spectrum of the active ingredient shows the typical results for carotene. β– carotene and lutein absorb light mainly at the blue light end of the spectrum with characteristic peaks at 400 - 490 nm. The peak at 680 nm was produced by a residual quantity of pheophytin a, a degradation product of chlorophyll.


atmospheric oxygen. Several other pathways prevent the formation of further radicals or eliminate them9


and natural


antioxidants are part of this complex system. Of note, a low intracellular concentration of ROS acts on second messengers, gene regulators and mediators for cell activation. However, extrinsic ROS generating radiation can very well induce a breakdown of the system


The skin’s own ‘Faraday shield’ The epidermis of the skin is the visible part of our body that interacts with the environment. It is a very specialised kind of tissue that has developed to cope predominantly with external threats such as particles, chemicals, pollution in general, wind and weather and of course radiation, mainly that of the sun. These factors are the main causes of premature skin ageing10


and April 2019


700


800


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