FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 109
Table 9: Soap based liquid formulation. Ingredients
Laurate/ Oleate mixture Polymers Perfumes
Other benefit components Water
%
15.0 – 20.0 0.3 – 1.0 0.5 – 1.0 1.0 – 2.0 80 – 85
applied for 6 hours on the same site and after application, the patch is removed and the forearm site is air dried. The reason for long contact time with the product is to de- nature the surface skin-barrier so that product could penetrate into the skin and cause erythema (redness) on the skin. The forearm site is then evaluated on rating scale 0-4 based on the redness and dryness of skin after application.
Conclusion
In the past, the cleansing products were designed only to deliver basic cleansing benefit, but now the consumer’s expectations are beyond cleansing. Due to literacy and awareness created by the media, people are becoming very health conscious. The selection of appropriate surfactant is necessary to achieve desired mildness of the cleansing products. Before formulating the product one should have
the clear understanding of the chemistry and effects of surfactant on the skin. The pH of the product and interaction of surfactants on the skin are the primary considerations for making the milder product. Along with mildness, product should also have appealing fragrances and good lathering properties. Now syndet bars are considered the mildest bar cleansers in the market. Formulators are now working on the developments of the new technologies having combinations of different milder surfactants to get the right product with good attributes and health benefits.
References: 1. Abbas SH. Body cleansing Technology, Handbook of Detergents part e: Applications, Ed. Zoller U: 136-138.
2. Moore PN, Puvvada S, Blankschtein D. Challenging the surfactant monomer skin penetration model: Penetration of sodium dodecyl sulfate micelles into the epidermis, J Cosmetic Sci 2003; 54(1): 29-46.
3. Russel MW, Michael JF, Joseph JL, Katharine M. Designing cleansers for the unique needs of baby skin, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Johnson & Johnson consumer and personal products worldwide, Skillman, N.J.,USA.
4. Ali SM, Yosipovitch G. Skin pH: From basic science to basic skin care, Acta Derm Venereol 2013; 93: 261-267.
5. Swanson F. Clinical evaluation of a new neutral detergent bar, J. Am. Med. Assoc. 1956; 162, 459-461.
6. Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Moore DJ, Subramanyan K, Misra M, Meyer F. Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing, Dermatologic Therapy 2004; 17: 16-25.
7. Schwuger MJ, Bartnik FG. Interaction of Anionic Surfactants with Proteins, Enzymes and Membranes, In: Anionic Surfactants, Surfactant Science Series, Vol. 10, C. Gloxhuber, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1980), 1-49.
8. Darcee DS, Stephen WK, Tichard IM, Richard FT. The Flex Wash Test, Unilever Research, United States.
9. Tronnier H, Heinrich U. Parf Kosmet 76:214, 1995.
10. Marc Paye, Ch.12 Model for studying surfactant interaction with skin, Handbook for detergent properties, edited by Guy Broze 11. Ertel KD, Keswich BH, Bryant PB. A forearm controlled application technique for estimating the relative mildness of personal cleansing products. J Soc Comset Chem. 1995;46:67-76 12. Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Yang L, Vincent C, et al, A novel technology in mild and moisturizing cleansing liquids, Cosmetic Dermatology 2009; 22(6); 307-316 13. Forsch PJ, Kligman AM. Atopic dermatitis, J AM Acad Dermatol 1:35, 1979.
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