20 IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL
Sam Farmer talks to Personal Care Sam Farmer, owner of Samuel Farmer & Co Ltd, spoke to Personal Care about his upcoming seminar titled ‘Teenage personal care – The gender agenda’ at in-cosmetics Global on Wednesday 3 April.
Personal Care: In general, do you think the youth market is overlooked by skin care manufacturers?
Sam Farmer: Yes. Perhaps the market isn’t large enough or margins aren’t profitable enough for the larger companies. The reasons for the marketing being
overlook are unclear but contribute to why I decided to get involved in 2011 after seeing lazy, patronising marketing and like- for-like formulations. At an age where personal care really matters to young people, they are looking to the industry for help, not cynicism. They deserve products that can help them with the issues that arise from adolescence. What we give them, more often than not, is a mix of sexual stereotyping, false promises and an ‘explosion in a perfume factory’ effect.
PC: How have the concepts of sexuality and identity evolved over the past few years? SF: Young people have moved beyond the traditional concepts of sexuality and gender. A 2015 YouGov survey reported that 49% of 19-24 year olds do not define themselves as heterosexual. Insights, such as this, help brands understand how teenagers are now defining themselves. Today, teenagers have a relaxed and accepting attitude towards gender, sexuality and gender and how others choose to define themselves.
PC: What have been the drivers of this change? SF: Teenagers are growing up in a world that is more accepting, generous and liberal – and they have a platform to challenge traditional notions of gender and sexuality and to make themselves heard. The internet and social media have been instrumental here, enabling young people to have a voice and champion inclusivity.
PC: How can personal care manufacturers improve their dialogue with consumers in this area? SF: It isn’t appropriate for all brands to address as there is the potential to cause confusion and, as such, it is important to establish the right intentions and reasons before attempting to target teenage consumers. The category is complicated, nuanced and requires brands to understand
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
the issues and opinions of young adults. Teenagers today have a relaxed and accepting attitude towards gender and how others choose to define themselves. Gay marriage, gender fluidity and equal rights are now part of their everyday lives. Personal care products are relied upon
to perform a basic but essential task and are accepted into teenager’s private living spaces. Trying to define who young adults are or how they should behave is old fashioned. Instead, brands are encouraged to target efficacy instead of insecurities and place the focus on the product and not the intended gender of the consumer. Brands shouldn’t overthink it. If a brand is truly engaged with a particular message, this will come across in their communication. Bringing out a range of products in an attempt to be part of a ‘trend’ instead of leading the market with a strong message risks a real struggle for attention. Lastly, absorb everything the consumer is doing. The teenage category is a complex, fickle and ever-changing sector. Listen, think and act accordingly.
PC: What further evolution can you predict? SF: I’d expect to see more brands entering the teenage market using alternative messages to gender as this can be complicated and challenging for many brands to navigate. Many will choose to lead with sustainability or lifestyle. However, it’s not so much what a brand creates but what is represents that is most important. I’d like to think that formulations will also come under greater scrutiny with brands being challenged to create a more sophisticated offering. Sam Farmer of Samuel Farmer & Co Ltd will lead a session at in-cosmetics Global on ‘Teenage personal care – The gender agenda’ on Wednesday 3 April at 16:00. The session will explore the market to date and the next steps in its evolution; the nuances of using gender segregation and key points in marketing personal care products to teenagers. For more information on the in-cosmetics Global 2019 education programme, visit:
https://www.in-cosmetics.com/global
Also at in-cosmetics Global… A host of interactive areas will be back this year, including the popular Formulation Lab, Sensory Bar, Makeup Bar and the new Indie Trail. Meanwhile, visitors will be able to get the latest insights into what’s next in the cosmetics and personal care markets from industry experts at the free-to-attend Marketing Trends and Technical Seminars programmes. R&D professionals will be presented with a unique opportunity to source the most innovative ingredients, to learn from industry experts about the most important trends influencing the beauty industry and network with their peers.
Staying relevant in a flourishing industry
The beauty industry continues to grow and has proved itself to be a thriving and popular sector on a global scale. The demand for beauty products continues to grow and has proved itself to be a thriving and popular sector on a global scale. Despite economic instability, the industry was estimated to have achieved sales of €200bn in 2017 and experts have forecasted a revenue increase of 7.14% in the next five years. According to Mintel, four key trends will be responsible for driving this growth: personalisation, the rise of digital, naturals, and the use of marketing campaigns that focus on encapsulating a brand’s personality. It is imperative that companies are able to attract consumers by successfully tapping into the latest trends. Developing both innovative and exciting products is the way they can make their mark in what is an increasingly competitive sphere.
Indie Trail
in-cosmetics Global 2019 will see the launch of the Indie Trail. Indie brands continue to dominate the market and have become increasingly influential in the beauty industry. The market saw a 659% increase in review volume in 2017, illustrating their popularity and importance. In response to feedback from indies that it can be difficult to source suppliers who can provide smaller ingredient quantities, in-
April 2019
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