122 NATURALS
of benefits posed and it’s good to make consumers aware of this. CBD works by affecting the endocannabinoid system and, while further research is still ongoing into the long-term benefits of using CBD to treat anxiety, initial studies suggest that CBD oil has anti-anxiety and antidepressant effects. Although anxiety is one of the main areas that CBD can help with, many do not know that this can also soothe acne and eczema as dermatologists are turning to CBD as a solution. The number of UK users of CBD oil has almost doubled in the last year, with many claiming the cannabis- based products are a more natural and easily accessible way to manage their health. While prescribed medicine will always be the recommendation of medical professionals, we are seeing increasing numbers of people turning to more alternative remedies, not just for their mental health but for any number of ailments.”
Regulatory evolution in the US and beyond Personal Care spoke to Pierre Bisseuil of Peclers Paris. We asked Pierre for a viewpoint on the cannabis economy in the US as legislation has evolved: “In April 2016, the UN organised an extraordinary work session on the worldwide issue of drugs and addiction. The conclusions of this international debate have shown a major shift of paradigm from global repression to decriminalisation and legalisation. Now, the cannabis economy is exploding in the USA and stories have reported that LSD microdosing is boosting Silicon Valley executives’ creativity. “Where are these phenomena coming
from? Overwhelmed with the idea of constant control and performance, many of our contemporaries are seeking letting-go and ‘indulgence’. The aspiration for a guilt- free life and emancipated self-expression translates into a quest for all things non- standard, provocative and at the same time liberating. People are increasingly fascinated by artificial paradises, regressive or intense moments of cathartic happiness. Taboos tumble and symbols that used to be counter-cultural are not only becoming dominant influences, but also economic drivers.”
One of the key processes is that after the stigma associated with cannabis dwindles people are then able to view the ingredient for its global attributes, beyond those associated with its recreational use. As Pierre continues: “Legalised in a number of US States, the use of marijuana is no longer stigmatised and the product, whose desirability is directly linked to its psychotropic properties, is turning into a bona fide industry. It is increasingly associated with alternative medicine and
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
rapidly over the next 10 years. Currently the globe is split with the western hemisphere having many fewer restrictions than the eastern hemisphere. There are signs that there will be a gradual weakening of restrictions in the west, which will present increased opportunities for cannabis- related product manufacturers.
Market examples Estée Lauder’s Origins - Hello Calm: Relaxing and Hydrating Face Mask with Cannabis Sativa Oil
well being, spreading to cosmetics, as seen at the Primal Wellness, “The World’s First Cannabis Infused Day Spa”, in Englewood (Colorado, 2016). Rap star (and now ‘ganja- preneur’) Snoop Dog has launched an exclusive and meticulously designed line labelled Leafs. For its antioxidant and anti- inflammatory active properties, cannabidiol (CBD) is now a star ingredient for West Coast indie beauty brands (Apothecanna, Lord Jones, CannaCeuticals, CBD For Life) and starts to penetrate mass market cosmetics as regulations continue to relax.” There has also been a great deal of legal change in the US in recent months. Following the 2018 Farm Bill,3
“hemp” is now defined
as “…the plant Cannabis sativa L. and any part of that plant, including the seeds thereof and all derivatives, extracts, cannabinoids, isomers, acids, salts, and salts of isomers, whether growing or not, with a delta-9 tetrahydrocannabinol [THC] concentration of not more than 0.3 percent on a dry weight basis.” This essentially means that hemp and CBD products can be sold provided the THC content does not exceed 0.3%. Canada recently legalised recreational use of cannabis and more states in the US have done the same. This is expected to result in an explosion of hemp-related products. In Europe, there are varying degrees of
prohibition. Some countries permit medical use of cannabis (Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Netherlands, Romania, Spain, and Italy) and those, along with others, allow CBD as an uncontrolled substance (although, for instance, the UK does not allow CBD to be derived from cannabis plants). Industrial hemp with THC values <0.2% is legal to cultivate throughout much of Europe. In a recent webinar,4
Euromonitor said
they expect the number of countries fully legalising use of cannabis for both recreational and medical use to grow
It is not just the niche brands taking to CBD beauty ranges. Estée Lauder cover two trends here with a CBD face mask. The marketing material states: “This ultra-hydrating mask infused with natural cannabis sativa seed oil instantly calms skin, visibly reduces irritation and de- stresses the senses.” This would indicate the key target areas are skin sensitivity and a de-stressing effect with an
‘instantaneous’ claim to entice consumers with typically modern, busy lifestyles. The information then goes into greater detail: “This lush, super-nourishing mask is formulated with Cannabis sativa seed oil from hemp that’s rich in essential omega-6 and omega-3 acids—and is non- intoxicating, to boot. It deeply hydrates skin to calm, soothe, and help de-stress the senses with its essential oil blend. It’s the mask that won’t leave you high and dry.“ It is interesting that the description
playfully references the lack of psychoactive qualities of cannabis after already mentioning that the product has no such effect.
Hemptouch – Balancing Face Cream Slovenian company, Hemptouch, said the product: “…rebalances oily and combination skin to combat blemishes and breakouts. This botanically-based emulsion sends a signal to the skin to reduce oil production and guides it to a balanced state. With regular use, it refines the appearance of pores and restores calm to irritated skin.” Again, there is an emphasis on calming irritated skin, but in this product the anti- acne efficacy is predominant.
The Body Shop - Hemp Hand Protector Another major brand with a hemp product line is The Body Shop. Along with products such as lip balm, and body butter, there is a Hemp Hand Protector. The Body Shop says: “Our best-selling hand cream. Wave goodbye to rough skin and help protect your hands from the elements with our soothing and nourishing hemp infused hand cream.” Here The Body Shop are focusing on the overall skin benefits as much as the soothing qualities of the product.
April 2019
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188
