SILICONES 93
Sensory changesby minimally disruptive technology
Tony O’Lenick - Siltech LLC, US David Zhang PhD - Siltech Corporation, Canada
In 2015 we have started using a concept we refer to as minimally disruptive formulation (MDF) as an effective approach to product development.1
Abstract This approach depends upon
the ability of personal care formulators to provide products that have consumer perceptible differences that meet a market need. Since product aesthetics are a key attribute of personal care products, the ability to alter product aesthetics to provide a different consumer perception with minimal change to the formulation is a very cost effective way to develop new products. This article will show the concept in a moisturiser that will be transformed into a cationic moisturiser. As silicone polymers continue to rise in price, using low levels of these materials added to a formulation is the best approach to get the benefit of silicone at a cost effective level.
The fact is a silicone polymer, properly chosen at a concentration of 10% or less, will provide to the formulation (1) a lowering of surface tension, (2) an alteration of feel at the interface, (3) an altering of cushion and playtime, (4) changing gloss and (5) a perception to a customer the product is different from the formulation to which the additive has not been made.2
This makes
silicone polymers quite valuable at low concentrations on formulation to make ‘new products’. The formulation of cosmetic products is both an art and a science. The science of most of the individual items in a complex formulation is generally well understood. The general concepts of formulation as far as what materials go into a specific type of product formulation are open to greater creativity. The formulator can combine many different types of ingredients into that and once combined have very different properties than any raw material alone. Generally, in other types of chemistries than the blend, the formulation chemist is required to strictly regard the reacting raw materials and observe the stoichiometric ratio. Formulations that are blends are different, despite the fact there are numerous interactions between the ingredients in a personal care blended
April 2019
product they all interact with each other, the solvent and the skin or hair to which they are applied. An added area that needs to be considered is the formulation must have the required aesthetics both as applied and after drying. I have seen many formulations that make outstanding emulsion stability. They may even have a great feel when applied, but they need to have a great initial feel after the solvent is gone and over the time they are on the skin or hair, finally they must wash off well and provide an acceptable aesthetic after wash.
These requirements make the formulation
of a product that provides outstanding performance in all these different ways, a work of art. This in part is why we recommend Minimally Disruptive Formulation (MDF). If you can successfully jump the hurdles of providing a product that meets all requirements, it would be a real waste to start
a new platform from scratch. The tested formulation is tried and true, is cost effective, is toxicity tested, and has a history. Making small, minimally disruptive changes is the optimum approach to formulation modification. Low concentrations of surface active ingredients will provide many different sensory feels and amaze the consumer that these are not vastly different.
Surface tension modification “If a personal care product is compared to a gourmet meal, silicone additives will be the spice, not the meat or potatoes.”2
This
means that small amounts of silicone polymer added to great formulas will bring out desired properties to a consumer, that will amaze and delight.3
This approach will
allow the formulator to make SMALL but MAJOR modifications to formulators in a very efficient way by modifying well known
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Silicone polymers have the unique ability to lower the surface tension of organic oils and thereby present a different aesthetic effect in cosmetic formulations. This allows silicone polymers to be added at less than 10% concentration and often less than 5% concentration and provide a different customer experience than achieved by standard silicones. Since the formulation is 90%+ identical to the starting formulation, the time and work needed to evaluate change is minimised. Likewise, the toxicology of the formulation, the need for many raw materials and the cost change is minimised.
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