178 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
Individuals have different needs and live different lives, and therefore require products that acknowledge and respond to this.
Over recent years there has been
increasing discussion within the industry about how best to tackle the question of customisation. The answer is: it’s not easy! There are a number of approaches and each needs a level of compromise. However, the desire for customisation among consumers is strong, so finished product manufacturers need to find the best route for them. According to Mintel: “Customisation is not an option, it’s a must-have for the future of beauty.” In addition, 48% of adults in the UK are interested in personalised beauty. However, a third (34%) of people in the UK believe such products are expensive and that customisation will lead to inflated prices. This is true, as the cheapest way to manufacture any product is to produce as much as possible of one design/recipe. Costs rise as differentiation increases, and this is the biggest issue with customisation. But we can see how some companies are approaching the concept.
Market examples of customisable beauty Clarins has had success with its drop-in ‘Booster’ range which it says are: “Highly concentrated formulas that will help you to revive, refresh and re-energize your skin, providing real-time answers to your occasional beauty needs linked to your lifestyle and environment. Simply add 3 to 5 drops to your favourite moisturiser, face mask or even your foundation to create a made-to-measure treatment for your skin’s needs. Use for a day, a week or a month.” This is probably the most straight-
forward strategy for customisation currently
Baobab fruit.
available. Adding a drop-in to a standard moisturiser gives the consumer a measure of control and a sense that the product they are applying has been modified for their own use.
Bobbi Brown’s Remedies range follows the same approach with a range of drop-ins to deliver “Targeted solutions for any skin issue”.
Formulation concept The customisable
Surfachem has developed ‘Super Food’, a formulation concept format that supports the qualities of these trends while embracing superhero stereotypes for their designs. The principal product within the concept ‘Super Food - Powers’ is a customisable face cream which allows the user to harness the power of superfoods with three Super Serums which elicit the sensations of ‘younger’, ‘fresher’, and ‘cleaner’.
The principle is a core base cream with a smooth texture and pleasant skin feel, which is then customised by the addition of drops from the individual’s chosen Super Serum. The Super Serums each focus on a
Bobbi Brown ‘drop-ins’. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
different benefit; Younger-Anti- Ageing, Cleaner-Anti-Acne and Fresher-Brightening. Younger-Anti-Ageing serum: includes InuMax Advanced Retinol from Evonik which uses the InuMax technology, a patent pending delivery system that presents excellent retinol stability benefits and also enables the bioavailability of retinol into deeper skin layers helping to maximise its anti-ageing benefits. In addition, the InuMax Advanced Retinol
cosmetic active yields much lower levels of skin irritation than free retinol, which can be an important benefit in high retinol- containing formulations. Cleaner-Anti-Acne serum: includes Phytosphingosine HCL and Herbapurifine from Evonik. Phytosphingosine HCL is a salt of skin-identical Phytosphingosine which improves the appearance of red, inflamed and blemished skin by soothing the skin and balancing its microflora. Herbapurifine is a natural active complex targeting blemished and impure skin. It unites the powerful properties of several natural herbs and supports the skin’s natural regulation of sebum production. Fresher-Brightening serum: includes two
ingredients from Evonik; TEGO enlight and TEGO Pep 4 Even. The activity of TEGO enlight is based on phytic acid and the constituents of white mulberry extract, and is an effective natural lightening blend that corrects blemishes caused by acne and hyperpigmentation. TEGO Pep 4 Even is a tetrapeptide that brightens the skin tone, visibly diminishing age spots, providing an even skin tone.
The superfoods The other formulas within Surfachem’s ‘SUPER Food’ range further explore incorporating foodstuffs into formulations. Super Food - Marinade, is a richly spiced body butter with Evonik’s TEGO Tumerone and Salinatural CCL from Salicylates. Tego Tumerone is a purified turmeric oil with high turmerone content, providing potent antioxidant activity and protection against oxidative stress on the skin. Salinatural CCL is a broad range natural preservative combining cinnamon and curry leaf oils. These efficient anti-bacterial oils have been
April 2019
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