LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 157


Intelligent ageing repair with skin superfoods


 M.L. Vázquez-González, G. Rodríguez, L.Rubio, J. Nestor, E. Fernández, Lucyanna Barbosa-Barros – Bicosome, Spain O. López - IQAC-CSIC, Spain


The demands of modern life generate stressful conditions that directly affect skin health. Many environmental factors, including exposure to solar radiation, pollution and blue light emitted by electronic devices, combined with stress, insufficient sleep and poor nutrition, generate a skin imbalance that results in premature ageing. In order to counteract these effects, efficient strategies to provide the skin with an adequate supply of nutrients are in demand.1 Microalgae are unicellular


microorganisms that synthesise a variety of nutritional compounds very efficiently.2,3 Haematococcus pluvialis (H. pluvialis) is a microalgae valued highly for its capacity to produce high amounts of natural astaxanthin.4


Currently, over 95% of the


astaxanthin available on the market is produced synthetically; while H. pluvialis- derived natural astaxanthin, 20 times more powerful that the synthetic version, makes up less than 1%. Astaxanthin is known to be one of the most powerful existing antioxidant molecules, 65 times more powerful than vitamin C, 54 times stronger than beta-carotene and 100 times more effective than α-tocopherol.5


H. pluvialis


also contains proteins, lipids, carbohydrates and is rich in other microelements and antioxidant molecules, such as beta- carotene, lutein and cantaxanthin. The use of this microalgae extract could offer innumerable anti-ageing and detox benefits


Abstract


The many environmental factors related to modern lifestyle generate a skin imbalance that leads to premature ageing. In this study, we evaluate the capacity of a new skin delivery system based on bicosomes (named bicosome-xanthin) to provide intense detox and revert the signs of ageing. This system was specially designed to incorporate, stabilise and deliver microalgae extract into deep skin layers. Bicosome- xanthin proved to be effective in protecting the skin against pollution particles and to prevent 90% of the damage caused by blue light. This extraordinary ingredient also proved in vivo to boost the skin’s antioxidant capacity and barrier function, to accelerate epidermal cell renewal, improve skin brightness and firmness, and visibly reduce wrinkles.


100 70%


75


50 34% 20% 25


0 Mg S Fe


Figure 2: Pollution protection. Pollution Protection Factor (PPF) of bicosome-xanthin ± SD. PPF = (shield effect bicosome-xanthin cream - shield effect control)/ shield effect control)


for the skin. However, despite these impressive features, microalgae is still used with some reticence in skin care. The main reasons are the challenges in stabilising its antioxidant molecules (otherwise degraded) and in achieving deep skin penetration (otherwise ineffective) to produce tangible results. Bicosome is an innovative skin delivery


platform made up of intelligent structures that can incorporate and stabilise different active molecules.6


Figure 1: Cryo-TEM image showing the structures of bicosome-xanthin. White arrows points to the internal smart disks and black arrow points to the external vesicle.


April 2019


able to gently penetrate the skin and transport active molecules into target skin layers, improving their effectiveness. The use of bicosomes is essential to stabilise and transport the natural astaxanthin and the other microalgae bioactives to the


Bicosome smart discs are


epidermal layers, where they can be used by the skin.


In this study, we evaluate the detox and anti-ageing efficacy of a bicosome system designed specially to incorporate H. pluvialis extract rich in natural astaxanthin, to stabilise its bioactive molecules and to deliver them into the deep epidermal layers, acting as a Skin Superfood. From here, this system will be referred to as bicosome-xanthin (Fig 1). Several in vitro and in vivo efficacy tests were conducted in order to evaluate the protective effect of bicosome-xanthin against environmental aggressions such as pollution and blue light, and its efficacy in improving the skin’s antioxidant capacity, cell renewal,


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


% PPF


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