164 TEXTURES
Innovative textures for your toolkit
Alice Miles, Peter Clark, Tony Gough – Innospec, UK
Texture plays a vital part in the overall experience of a personal care product and it can take a great deal of experience before a formulator can confidently adjust the texture of a product subtly to achieve the desired feel. However, ingredient suppliers make it their goal to take some of the trial and error out of the process and give formulators ingredients that can instantly transform formulations, delivering ‘Wow’ factor. Here we highlight that it is not essential to stick to classical products when developing your next formulation. This article will illustrate how Innospec’s ingredients work to formulate those transforming textures, solid textures, light and fresh formulations, oils and jellies, and more.
The power to transform Transforming products are the latest innovations on today’s market. Consumers are seeking textures that combine both effectiveness and appealing sensorial benefits. These textures add a whole new experience to daily cleansing regimes, as well as providing sought-after benefits for skin and hair.
Transformative ingredients Empilan®
DPHS is a non-ionic emulsifier and dispersing agent. Its polymeric nature can provide excellent long term stability performance and a soft and light touch to personal care water in oil formulations.
Empilan DPHS is also a very efficient emulsifier that allows high levels of water to be incorporated in formulations even at very low concentrations. The ingredient delivers high sensory skin-feel benefits and excellent long term stability. It is compatible with a wide range of oils, from non-polar to high polarity, along with a wide range of skin care actives and additives. It offers an alternative to silicone based emulsifiers and creates a light skin feel for W/O emulsions. Finsolv®
TN is a unique non-toxic, non-
irritating, non-sensitising, noncomedogenic and practically odorless emollient ester. It is water insoluble, readily emulsifiable and imparts a dry lubricating feel even in the presence of large amounts of mineral oil or petrolatum (‘deoils’ mineral oil and ‘degreases’ petrolatum).
Its multifunctional qualities mean it can be
formulated in a variety of cosmetic and personal care products as well as sun care and OTC skin products, all possessing a dry (non- greasy) cosmetically elegant emollient feel.
Prototype formulation
Milky Macadamia Cleanser S0198 (Formulation 1) cleanses and removes facial makeup and impurities and features both of the ingredients described previously to create a transforming product that changes from a balm, to an oil, to a milk. The user is left with a soft and non-greasy after-feel.
Formulation 1: Milky Macadamia Cleanser S0198 Phase Trade Name (Supplier) INCI A Empilan®
Nikkol GO 430NV (Nikko Chemicals)
%
DPHS (Innospec) PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Kahlwax 7791 (Kahlwax) Polyethylene (Mosselman) Finsolv®
(Aroma Zone) B Vitamin E Acetate 2.0
14.0 5.5
TN (Innospec) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Isopropyl Myristate Tocopheryl Acetate
Green Tea 107743 (Arômes et Parfums)
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Parfum
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil 25.0 26.0 27.0 0.5
q.s.
Milky Macadamia Cleanser S0198
Solid textures Solid product textures are a hit with consumers as they provide convenience, are travel-friendly and are considered as being more environmentally friendly. As these solid products are highly concentrated, they are formulated using small amounts of water – sometimes with no water at all, which means they can be packed using very little packaging. In some cases, even biodegradable or recyclable packaging can be used such as paper board, which can eliminate the need for plastic packaging.
Ingredients for solid textures Pureact®
I-78 is a mild surfactant specifically designed for use in personal cleansing products. It is high foaming, nearly salt-free and is resistant to hard and salt water. It is compatible with soap and gives excellent lime-soap dispersibility in order to retard the formation of scum in bar soaps. The ingredient is used in ‘combo bar’ applications at levels of 2–60% to provide lathering in hard or soft water similar to soaps in soft water. Its dense lather is additive to that of soap. Such mixtures are mild to the skin and are relatively non-drying. The properties of Pureact I-78 also make it an excellent cleansing agent for shampoos. Besides compatibility with hard water, good cleaning properties, and excellent lathering, it imparts softness and manageability to hair. To enhance the eco-credentials, it is naturally derived and is considered ‘readily biodegradable’ according to OECD Guidelines. From the same range, WSP, derived from coconut, is a 75% active powder material that is used in cosmetic preparations and shampoos due to its excellent foaming properties, lubricity, detergency and mildness. WSP is compatible with all nonionic and anionic surfactants, is stable at extreme pH conditions, and is effective under hard water conditions. I-78 and WSP are both powder sulfate-free surfactants and provide a dense foam.
Also featured is Pureact SCG which
provides creaminess to the foam and lowers dusting.
April 2019
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