102 SKIN PROTECTION


by limiting the activation of the Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor (AhR) pathway, which is the major biological pathway of the skin’s response to pollutants. The prolonged activation of this pathway leads to numerous deleterious effects: lipid peroxidation, DNA damage, breakdown of the skin barrier, redness, and hyperpigmentation. Ascophyllum nodosum reduces the interaction of pollutants with AhR receptors, and hence, the damage they can cause.20, 21, 22


Blue light and infrared radiation Inorganic filters such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide form a physical barrier and protect against UV radiation and also to some extent against pollution, infrared and blue light. Blue light is high energy visible light (HEV), emitted primarily by the sun, but also by electronic devices. It can have a negative effect on vision, circadian rhythm, and skin by interacting with photoreceptors, which while predominantly present in our retinas, are also present in the skin.23-27


Blue


light can induce oxidation and inflammation, and thus accelerate skin ageing. In vitro and in vivo testing has shown that Capsicum annum red pepper extract is rich in capsanthin compounds. These are classes of carotenoids which have the ability to absorb blue light and thereby reduce its harmful effects. This extract works as an even stronger antioxidant than the well-known beta-carotene, helping to prevent changes in DNA and reducing cellular responses to blue light such as pigmentation. The extract also protects collagen from infrared light, which has the ability to deeply penetrate the skin and stimulate the formation of free oxygen radicals.28, 5


New grades of titanium dioxide


have also appeared on the market, which show a greater ability to protect against infrared radiation than conventional UV filters or pigments currently used in colour cosmetics. These grades of titanium dioxide have been shown to limit the rise of skin temperature when exposed to IR irradiation, indicating that IR light is being blocked.29


Sunless Tanning It is difficult to achieve a ‘dream tan’ when using products with high sun protection. Self-tanning products are an increasingly important segment of the sun care market, as consumers want to achieve a tanned look without compromising their health. Self-tans are considered safe and are a perfect solution for those who want to enjoy a tan without having to expose themselves to UV radiation. The base component of self-tans is dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which reacts with amino acids in the stratum corneum of the epidermis and gives a brown colour a few hours after application. However, as DHA does not


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Conclusion


It is not always easy to balance aesthetics with efficacy in sun care products. Cosmetics that provide sun protection help to reduce the risk of skin cancer and slow down ‘photo-ageing’. Educating consumers about the need for frequent and correct use of protective sun care products is undoubtedly very important, but introducing new ingredients to improve their ease of application and pleasant feel is also key. The constant misuse of sun care products raises questions about the way consumers have been informed about sun care as well as the efficacy of the SPF system. Modern consumers are concerned not only about the harmful effects of UV radiation, but also about the effects of pollution, blue light and IR. They also pay attention to the impact of the products they buy on the environment, through both the product packaging and also the product’s ingredients. The growing list of consumer requirements: their active lifestyles, pro ecological attitudes, and desire for high


protection against a wide range of factors mean that the development of sun care products is becoming quite a challenge. Technological advancements and multifunctional materials such as those discussed in this article should help formulators in the development of modern sun care formulations that meet both consumers’ aesthetic and safety needs.


602.pdf


2 http://tinyurl.com/y997bn6x 3 http://www.vertellus.com/products/personal- consumer-care/hydroxystearic-acid/casid-hsa- 12-hydroxystearic-acid


4 http://tinyurl.com/ya2on33x 5 http://www.aston-chemicals.com/single- product?id=1206


stimulate melanin synthesis and does not protect against UV radiation, sunscreens should still be used to protect the skin. The addition of pigments is desirable in self-tan formulations because it provides an instant bronzing effect and improves the immediate appearance of the skin. However, DHA requires a fairly low pH and is incompatible with iron oxides, so many cosmetics manufacturers have so far struggled with the introduction of pigments, ordinary or pearlescent, for self- tanning products. The solution can be to separate the pigments from DHA, placing them in separate phases of the emulsion and using pigments with extra surface modification. This makes it possible to achieve a more stable product, limiting DHA degradation.30


6 https://uk.lush.com/products/sunblock; https://thezerowaster.com/2017/07/31/zero- waste-sunscreen/


7 http://tinyurl.com/y7tpaup3 8 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed /15560736


9 http://tinyurl.com/yavxobto 10 http://tinyurl.com/yaoxvs9r 11 Wang SQ, Balagula Y, Osterwalder U. Photoprotection: a Review of the Current and Future Technologies. Dermatol Ther 2010; 23: 31-47


12 http://tinyurl.com/y9bhkazc 13 http://tinyurl.com/yc9gunlz 14 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed /29801220


15 https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/sun- creams/article/once-a-day-sun-creams


16 https://www.tga.gov.au/book/export/ html/5307


17 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ articles/PMC3673383/


18 https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer- information/lip-cancer-not-uncommon


19 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ articles/PMC3077767/


20 http://tinyurl.com/ybfr98fc 21 http://tinyurl.com/yck65zs8 22 http://tinyurl.com/y9hna7vw 23 Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 2018, Testing Tactics in Skin, A view of Visible Light Protection


24 http://tinyurl.com/ybwbnht6 25 http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_ committees/opinions_layman/artificial- light/en/index.htm


26 http://tinyurl.com/y8cph8xr 27 Cosmetics & Toiletries, January 2018, Into the Blue, Novel Test Reveals Blue Light Damage Protection Strategies


28 https://cdn- pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/jf980200i


29 http://www.koboproductsinc.com/ Downloads/Kobo-IR-Blockers.pdf


30 http://www.koboproductsinc.com/ Downloads/TreatedPearlsPowders.pdf


31 https://aakpersonalcare.com/wp-content/ uploads/2016/02/AAK_Lipex_PreAct.pdf


April 2019


PC


References 1 http://www.phie.pl/pdf/phe-2014/phe-2014-3-


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