SKIN CARE 81
IL1 - alpha (pg/ml) 800
600 400 200 0
SLS 0.25% Decrease of IL 1-alpha Figure 3: Study of inflammation mediator.
activate the immune system’s response. Generally IL-1 is essential in regulating the inflammatory response and several studies showed the essential role of IL-1 alpha, produced by lymphocytes and keratinocytes, in the pathogenesis of Acne vulgaris. Indeed, there is evidence of a large increase in IL-1 expression and secretion during the early phases of acne lesions development9
and of its role in the
promotion of comedogenesis.10, 11 To investigate the anti-inflammatory potential of this ingredient, we tested its ability to inhibit the release of IL-1 alpha cytokine after a treatment on reconstructed artificial human skin with 0.25% SLS for 60 minutes. We tested two different concentrations, 1% and 3% and the culture medium have been collected at 6 and 24 hours.
At a concentration of 1%, IL-1 alpha
decreases by 67% after 6 hours and by 28% after 24 hours. At a concentration of 3%, instead, by 79% and 43% respectively (Fig 3).
Exfoliating activity
An additional value of this new active ingredient is given by the titrated content of shikimic acid, at least 15%. Given the widely-known properties of this component in literature, we tested its efficacy as an exfoliating agent, thus making Star Anise Extract able to act optimally on another important contributor to acne disease: hyperkeratosis.
One of the first alterations that occurs in this kind of disease concerns precisely the keratinization of the pilosebaceous duct. There is an increase in the proliferation of keratinocytes or the cells that make up the walls of the pilosebaceous duct and also a structural variation in the keratin they produce, which increases in density. This, added to the increased production of
April 2019
sebum, leads to the obstruction of the duct and to the first clinical manifestations: the comedones.10
The exfoliating activity
therefore allows to remove the outer layer of dead cells and sebum that accumulate in the initial stages of acne, allowing the skin to breathe again and renew itself.
.
To test the exfoliating activity we compared the peeling activity of an aqueous solution of shikimic acid 5% vs. glycolic acid 50%, a well-known peeling agent, on ten volunteers. It was measured the trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL) after 1 hour from the application of shikimic acid, glycolic acid and water. The two acid solutions were not rinsed off. Obtained results were comparable in terms of increment of TEWL, but while glycolic acid determined after 24h the appearance of dryness, desquamation and redness, shikimic acid offered a milder exfoliating action as the treated area showed a normal aspect.
Antioxidant activity The last activity of this ingredient is directed against free oxygen radicals and lipid peroxidation. These two events occur daily on our skin, but they are even more pronounced and severe in oily skins because the sebum is mainly composed of lipids that act as the main target of oxidative stress. The perfect combination of the naturally occurring elements in the Illicium verum fruit such as anethole, triterpenes, sesquiterpenes, flavonoids, and polyphenols provides a perfect mix of antioxidants to protect the skin from the harmful effects of external pollution and ultraviolet radiation which, by increasing the production of ROS (free oxygen radicals), would cause a worsening of the inflammatory response.
-28% -43%
6h 24h
Conclusion Following the previous observations, the key word to describe this new ingredient could be: multifunctionality. In just one ingredient there is a real chest of synergistic activities linked to the main symptoms - antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, sebum- normalising, exfoliating and antioxidant - making Star Anise Extract the perfect solution for acne-prone skins: after 30 days skin is renewed, purer, healthier and free to breathe.
-67%
Star Anise Extract 1%+ SLS 0.25%
Star Anise Extract is also suitable to -79%
Star Anise Extract 3%+ SLS 0.25%
Negative control
create a complete skin care routine, as it can be easily added to all cosmetics forms: creams, masks, gels, serums, cleansers and rinse-off products. It is therefore the comprehensive solution to counteract blemishes, impurities and other manifestations in acne-prone, oily and combination skins.
PC
References 1 Bhambri S, Del Rosso JQ, Bhambri A. Pathogenesis of acne vulgaris: recent advances. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2009
2. Bergler-Czop B. The aetiopathogenesis of acne vulgaris - what’s new? International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2014;(36): 187- 194.
3. Wang GW, Hu WT, Huang BK, Qin LP. Illicium verum: A review on its botany, traditional use, chemistry and pharmacology. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2011;(136): 10-20.
4. Lee SW, Li G, Lee KS, Song DKSJK. A New Phenylpropanoid Glucoside from the Fruits of Illicium verum. Archives of Pharmacal Research. 2003; 26(8): 591-593.
5. Aly SE, Sabry BA, Shaheen MSHAS. Assessment of antimycotoxigenic and antioxidant activity of star anise (Illicium verum) in vitro. Journal of the Saudy Society of Agricultural Sciences. 2016;(15): 20-27.
6. Sung YY, Yang WK, Lee AY, Nho KJ, Kim YS, Kim HK. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2012;(144): 151-159.
7. Diaz Quiroz DC, Carmona SB, Bolivar F, Escalante A. Current perspectives on applications of shikimic acid and aminoshikimic acid in pharmaceutical chemistry. 2014;(4): 35-46.
8. Nakatsuji T, Rasochova L, Huang CM. Vaccine therapy for
P.acnes-associated diseases. Infect Disord Drug Targets. 2008;8(3): 160-165.
9. Ingham E, Walters CE, Eady EA, et al. Inflammation in acne vulgaris: failure of skin micro-organisms to modulate keratinocyte interleukin 1 alpha production in vitro. Dermatology. 1998;196:86–88.
10.Guy R, Green MR, Kealey T. Modeling acne in vitro. J Invest Dermatol. 1996;106:176–182. 11. Jalian HR, Takahashi S, Kim J. Overview of Dermatological Diseases. “Go to Comprehensive Medicinal Chemistry II on ScienceDirect” Comprehensive Medicinal Chemistry II 2007. 7;7.32:935-955
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