158 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
brightness, barrier function, firmness and ability to reduce wrinkles. Bicosomes are produced using a green
process, which does not involve the use of organic solvents and generates zero waste. The microalgae extract used in the study is produced using an eco-innovative process that uses low temperatures to prevent the degradation of bioactive molecules and produces an extract free of pollutants, odour and fishy aftertaste that is suitable for vegans. This also makes bicosome-xanthin a natural and environmentally conscious product.
In vitroefficacy studies In the in vitro studies, skin samples were exposed to various environmental aggressions in order to evaluate the capacity of bicosome-xanthin to protect the tissue.
Protecting the skin against pollution Concerns regarding the impact pollution has on skin health is growing, especially in big cities where there is a higher concentration of pollutants.7
Pollution
particles can accumulate on the skin surface, obstructing pores, making skin look dull and promoting oxidative stress. The antipollution effect of bicosome- xanthin was evaluated by analysing the contaminants that passed through skin samples treated with an aqueous dispersion with 3% bicosome-xanthin compared to non-treated samples. To this end, a MIVO (Multi In Vitro Organ) device was used. MIVO has two fluidic chambers (i.e. upper and lower chamber) separated by a skin model. The upper MIVO chamber was loaded with a pollution solution, properly chosen to imitate urban dust (Urban particulate matter NIST®
SRM® 1648a,
Sigma-Aldrich). After 24 hours of exposure to the pollution, the solutions in the upper and lower chambers were collected and analysed with a CrossBeam®
1540XB (Carl
Zeiss, Konstanz, Germany). This instrument is a scanning electron microscope (SEM) featuring energy dispersive X-Ray spectroscopy (EDX). SEM images were acquired to observe the pollutants in the upper and lower MIVO chambers. Additionally, the analysis of the chemicals present in the solutions was assessed using EDX. Afterwards, the protection pollutant factor (PPF) was calculated as a measure of the decrease in pollutant passage through the skin from the upper chamber to the lower chamber. PPF= (shield effect antipollution - shield
effect control)/ shield effect control Figure 2 shows the PPF of bicosome- xanthin for different pollutants. The main protection was observed against iron absorption (70%), followed by magnesium (34%) and sulphur particulates (20%). According to these results, bicosome-
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Control NO irradiated
Control Blue light irradiated
Irradiated and treated with bicosome-xanthin
Figure 4: Blue light protection. Fluorescence intensity of skin samples non-irradiated and non-treated (light grey bar), irradiated and non-treated (light red bar) and irradiated and treated with bicosome- xanthin (dark red bar).
xanthin is effective in protecting the cutaneous tissue against the absorption of environmental pollution.
Preventing damage caused by exposure to blue light
The damage from increasing exposure to blue light is attracting more attention in scientific discussions. Although we receive this radiation from sunlight, our exposure to other sources of blue light like smartphones, tablets and computer screens is progressively increasing in our daily routine, with the subsequent impact on skin function. Blue light radiation damages the skin mainly by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS), which accelerates ageing processes.8
One possible strategy to overcome this
aggression is to provide the skin with an extra supply of antioxidant molecules to improve its own antioxidant defences. In order to evaluate the ability of bicosome-xanthin to prevent blue light damage, skin explants treated and non- treated with bicosome-xanthin were
subjected to blue light radiation (λ= 468 nm) for 4 hours and the amount of ROS in each skin sample was quantified. The bicosome-xanthin-treated and non-
treated skin samples were previously incubated for 30 minutes with dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA) at 40º C, a fluorescent marker that reacts with ROS becoming fluorescent. After irradiation, the skin samples were observed
April 2019
Figure 3: Blue light protection. Visualisation of ROS in fluorescent marked skin explants (A) non- irradiated and non-treated, (B) irradiated and non-treated and (C) irradiated and treated with bicosome-xanthin. Red fluorescence indicates the presence of ROS.
A
Control non-irradiated and non-treated
Control Blue light irradiated and non-treated
B C Irradiated
and treated with bicosome-xanthin
Fluorescence intensity /AU
90% ROS decrease
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