EYE AREA CARE
Shadows and puffiness fade away The culmination of this research on the cosmetic properties of sea buckthorn’s leaves lies in the setup of two clinical studies. Thirty Caucasian women, presenting dark
circles of vascular origin, and 31 Caucasian women with eye bags linked to insufficient lymphatic drainage, applied a cream infused with 2% of the active ingredient twice daily for 28 days, on split face. A placebo was administered on the other side. A panel of methodologies was employed
to assess the active’s capacity to fade dark circles and relieve eye bags. Results show a clear reduction of signs of fatigue, statistically significant versus placebo. Clinical scoring on the dark circles reveals
a reduction of their visibility (-13.1%) and color intensity (-12.8%) associated with a lighter shade (ITA°: +19.2%) (Figure 5). Image analysis of the surface covered by the dark circles shows a reduction of 4.7% on the active treated side, confirmed by the dermatologist assessments. (Figure 6). Regarding eye bags, calculation based on
3D acquisitions reveal a reduction of 7% of their volume. Clinical scoring confirms these effects, both
in terms of visibility and volume of the eye bags (Figure 7). Overall, there is a noticeable improvement
in the healthy glow, reduction of tiredness, and enhancement of beauty in the under-eye area.
Conclusion Thanks to its lipophilic composition, Eyeglorius™ is a technical ally for the formulator, opening up a myriad of possibilities for skincare and makeup formulations. Beyond its easy incorporation into W/O
formulations, its solubility in oils is a true advantage for stable O/W compositions. It prevents instabilities often caused by aqueous extracts in emulsions and enables to split the load of actives between the different phases of a formula. Moreover, being heat resistant, it can be
incorporated into stick formulas or in a one-pot process.
References 1. Huy Tu Nguyen, Isaacowitz DM, Rubin PAD. Age- and Fatigue-related Markers of Human Faces: An Eye-Tracking Study. Ophthalmology. Volume 116, Number 2, February 2009
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https://www.inserm.fr/dossier/ sommeil/
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https://www.cdc.gov/sleep/data-and- statistics/
adults.html
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5. Phang SW, Ooi BK; Ahemad N, Yap, WH.
www.personalcaremagazine.com PC Figure 7: Before/after pictures – Volume of eye bags. CO2/EtOH extract ofHippophae rhamnoides – 2%
Maslinic acid suppresses macrophage foam cells formation: Regulation of monocyte recruitment and macrophage lipids homeostasis. Vascular Pharmacology. 2020; 128-129, p. 106675
6. Lee W, Yang E-J, Ku S-K, Song K-S, Bae, J-S. Anti-inflammatory effects of oleanolic acid on LPS-induced inflammation in vitro and in vivo. Inflammation. 2013; vol. 36, n° 1, p. 94–102
7. Feng J, Zhang P, Chen X, He G. PI3K and ERK/Nrf2 pathways are involved in oleanolic acid-induced heme oxygenase-1 expression in rat vascular smooth muscle cells. Journal of Cellular Biochemistry. 2011; Vol. 112, n° 6, p. 1524–1531
8. Kim H, Ramirez CN, Su Z-Y, Kong A-NT. Epigenetic modifications of triterpenoid ursolic acid in activating Nrf2 and blocking cellular transformation of mouse epidermal cells. Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry. 2016; vol. 33, p. 54–62
9. Zhang W, Feng J, Cheng B, Lu Q, Chen X. Oleanolic acid protects against oxidative stress-induced human umbilical vein endothelial cell injury by activating AKT/ eNOS signaling. Molecular Medicine Reports. 2018; vol. 18, n° 4, p. 3641–3648
10. Samivel R et al. Inhibitory Effect of Ursolic Acid on Ultraviolet B Radiation-Induced Oxidative Stress and Proinflammatory Response-Mediated Senescence in Human Skin Dermal Fibroblasts. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity. 2020, p. 1246510
11. Gupta D, Kaul V. Qualitative Analysis of Bioactive Compounds in Leaves of
Hippophae rhamnoides L. National Academy Science Letters. 2013; vol. 36, n° 5, p. 477–481
12. Xueying M, Yang W, Kallio H, Yang B. Health promoting properties and sensory characteristics of phytochemicals in berries and leaves of sea buckthorn (Hippophaërhamnoides). Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition. 2021
13. Sharma A, Singh V, Sharma A, Negi N. Seabuckthorn a new approach in ecological restoration of Himalayan Ecosystem: A review. Int. J. Chem. Stud. 2019, 7, 1219–1226
14. Gupta P, Balwani S, Kumar S, Aggarwal N, Rossi M, Paumier S, Caruso F, Bovicelli P, Saso L, DePass AL, Prasad AK, Parmar VS, Ghosh B. beta-sitosterol among other secondary metabolites of Piper galeatum shows inhibition of TNFalpha-induced cell adhesion molecule expression on human endothelial cells. Biochimie. 2010 Sep;92(9):1213-21
15. Paniagua-Pérez R, Flores-Mondragón G, Reyes-Legorreta C, Herrera-López B, Cervantes-Hernández I, Madrigal-Santillán O, Morales-González JA, Álvarez-González I, Madrigal-Bujaidar E. Evaluation Of The Anti-Inflammatory Capacity Of Beta- Sitosterol In Rodent Assays. Afr. J. Tradit. Complement. Altern. Med. 2016 Nov 23;14(1):123-130
16. Bakrim S, Benkhaira N, Bourais I, Benali T, Lee LH, El Omari N, Sheikh RA, Goh KW, Ming LC, Bouyahya A. Health Benefits and Pharmacological Properties of Stigmasterol. Antioxidants (Basel). 2022; Sep 27;11(10):1912
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE Figure 6: Surface of dark circles. Surface at D0 in violet, Surface at D28 in yellow BEFORE AFTER PLACEBO CO2
/Et0H EXTRACT OF HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES-2%
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