52 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
of olive squalane, hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate and the copolymer of hydrogenated castor oil with sebacic acid, such as Berg + Schmidt’s BergaCare FG Gel, has shown to be very suitable for use in cosmetic formulations i.e. from anhydrous oil gels to cleansing milks and lip products. This is a blend made of natural emollients,
a texturizer and stability enhancer with film forming and viscosity enhancing properties. This blend (INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic acid Copolymer, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) comes as a transparent pale yellowish gel which is, in contrast to other ingredients, cold-processible in pure oil and requires adequate shearing force by using rotor-stator or propeller stirring device. The device used has no influence on the
final texture or viscosity. When tested in pure sunflower oil, the thickening blend has shown to build up its final viscosity after 24 hours at RT leading to a jelly-like appearance. The final viscosity depends on the use concentration and oil used. Thanks to its natural thixotropic behaviour, it liquefies again once shaken or stirred. This rheological appearance makes it ideal for spray or pump packaging.
Compatibility with different oil types As shown in Figure 1, vegetable oils and natural esters are extremely suitable for pure oil thickening. Furthermore, not only the viscosity, but also the texture changes which may lead to a completely different perception of the oil once applied to the skin. Jojoba oil, for example, shows a significant
increase in viscosity turning into a pleasant gel. Other vegetable oils like olive or sesame become more jelly-like. In contrast to that, mixed and modified castor oil shows a honey- like texture. The natural oil thickening blend is not only compatible with various oil types, but also allows for different textures and concepts as further shown below.
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
TABLE 1: ELEGANT GEL-CREAM FOR MATURE SKIN (RFGG-04.01-1223), NATURAL O/W EMULSION WITH PARTICULARLY LUXURIOUS SKIN FEEL.
Phase Ingredients
A Demin.Water Glycerin
BergaSom Sun 75H
Cosphaderm Pentiol Natural
B
BergaCare FG-Olive Sunflower Seed Oil BergaCare FG Gel Keltrol CG-SFT
Jojoba Oil Vegarol 18-98
Cosphaderm T70 non-GMO ECO
C
BergaCare AquaLipids Bisabolol AR
D Aloe Stars INCI Aqua Glycerin
Hydrogenated Lecithin Pentylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Helianthus Annuss (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic acid, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Xanthan Gum
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Stearyl Alcohol
Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Aqua, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Glcerin, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate, Bisabolol, Pentylene Glycol, Phytosterols, Sodiu Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Perfume
Suppliers w/w (%) 57.1 4.0 3.0
1 1
2 1
3 1
4 3
1 2 1 5 5.00
10.0 5.0 3.0 0.2
8.0 1.0
0.5 3.0 0.2
Procedure: Weigh in phase A and heat up to 65°C. Weigh in phase B and heat up to 75°C. Add phase A to phase B while homogenization, homogenize for 1 min. at 9000 rpm. Cool down to room temperature while stirring. Add phase C under 40°C. Add phase D at room temperature. pH = 5.0- 5.5
Suppliers: 1. Berg+Schmidt 2. Cosphatec 3. Henry Lamotte 4. CP Kelco 5. Vögele
Formulating commonly used ingredients Especially for physical UV filters the products aesthetics play an important role. Facial fluids or other usually liquid sunscreen formulations based on fast spreading emollients risk to be too runny. A simple sunflower oil base thickening with the blend has shown to become a stable oil gel when loaded with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Hence, one solution for a better on-point
application of important sun care products. Other solid particle like pigments can be
incorporated into a cold-processed oil gel making the thickener a good choice for colour cosmetics. Water or hydrophilic active ingredients can
be incorporated by up to 5% leading to some turbidity due to the refraction. However, slightly decreasing the amount of oil may bring cost advantages.
Oil rheology modifier in emulsion products Formulators and consumers alike know how important sensory is with skin care products.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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