96 EYE AREA CARE


Novel oil-soluble bioactive for eye area care


Laurie Canel – Gattefossé ABSTRACT


French cosmetic bioactives maker Gattefossé, which specializes in plant and lipid chemistry, has developed Eyeglorius™ - an original blend of lipophilic metabolites (triterpenic acids, phytosterols among others) derived from the upcycled leaves of a superfruit tree, sea buckthorn, sourced in Canada. This ingredient offers cosmetic brands a versatile solution capable of addressing various signs of fatigue simultaneously. This high-end active showcases noteworthy formulating properties. Being oily-based and heat-resistant, it opens up a plethora of possibilities for creating anti-fatigue skincare and makeup formulations.


Our eyes speak volumes about us. Across various cultures, societal perceptions of fatigue and age often hinge on the appearance of the eye contour. Research conducted in the US delved into the facial cues people rely on when assessing the age or tiredness level of a person’s face.1 The study demonstrates that age and fatigue


judgments are predominantly based on the eye area. This implies that aesthetic surgery or cosmetic treatments targeting the eyes may be the most effective practices in enhancing an individual’s appearance. Hence, symptoms impairing the eye


region such as dark circles and puffiness have become prevalent concerns. This is particularly pronounced in the fast-paced 21st century, where sacrificing sleep duration has become a common tactic to save precious minutes. We


sleep 1.5hrs less that 50 years ago,2 and 35%


of US adults are not getting the recommended seven hours of sleep each night.3


The multifactorial physiopathology of dark circles and eye bags The under-eye region is the first area to suffer from fatigue and stress, due to its particular anatomical structure. As Chloé Lorion, research & development engineer in skin biology at Gattefossé explains: “This area of the face is very thin, three times thinner than the rest of the face. Moreover, the region is richly vascularized and innervated, with more than 3000 capillaries per cm2


of skin which is huge,


located 1mm from the skin surface”. Owing to its thinness, translucency, and


constant exposure to environmental stressors, the highly vascularized and innervated eye


contour is particularly susceptible to displaying microcirculation disorders. Cutaneous microcirculation refers to the


intricate network of blood and lymphatic capillaries within the skin. Its primary purpose is to supply oxygen and nutrients to the different skin’s compartments. Within the capillaries, a layer of cohesive


endothelial cells linked by tight junctions works as a barrier between fluids and the surrounding dermal tissue. In the event of aggression or injury, the


immunity response is activated through the extravasation process. Leukocytes typically circulating into the bloodstream must cross the endothelial barrier to reach inflamed tissues. Extravasation regulates the rapid migration from the bloodstream to the site of infection by enhancing vascular permeability.


1 2 3 4


Figure 1: The extravasation process: 1. White blood cells are captured along the vascular wall - 2. They adhere to the membranes of endothelial cells through activation of receptors (VCAM-1) - 3. Tight junctions open, leading to white blood cell leakage - 4. This opening triggers red blood cell leakage at the same time (passive consequence)


PERSONAL CARE April 2024 www.personalcaremagazine.com


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