114 MARINE INGREDIENTS
induce depolarization and hence changes in intracellular sodium concentration which were detected by fluorescence. At the highest concentration tested, the ferment extract significantly decreased the influx of sodium ions by 21% (p<0.05). This reduction was observed in a concentration-dependent manner. Finally, human skeletal myocytes in a
collagen matrix were used to assess the ferment extract’s efficacy in modulating muscular contraction. Myocyte contractility was shown to be significantly reduced by the ferment extract in a dose-dependent manner; at the highest tested dosage, this decrease in myocyte gel contraction reached 48% (p<0.001) (Figure 5).
Additional anti-ageing benefits In the metabolomics characterization of the ferment, several biomimetic compounds with potential anti-aging benefits including antioxidants and collagen precursors, were identified. Therefore, the efficacy of the ferment extract to boost hyaluronic acid and procollagen I was tested in human epidermal keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts, respectively. The active ingredient significantly
increased hyaluronic acid by 17% (p<0.05) and significantly increased procollagen I in a dose dependent manner reaching an increase of 28% (p<0.05) at the highest concentration tested.
Smoothing hidden expression lines Two panels of 20 women with expression lines in crow’s feet and forehead/frown, between 45 and 60 years old, applied a cream with 3% of the commercial solution of the ferment extract or a placebo to their entire face, twice daily for 28 days. The depth and volume of the wrinkles
in the crow’s feet and forehead/frown area were evaluated by fringe projection when the volunteers were frowning or smiling as well as when they were making no facial expressions in order to evaluate if the ferment extract could also decrease these hidden wrinkles. Within just ten minutes, the volunteers who used the cream with the ferment extract experimented an average significant 9% reduction in the volume (p<0.01) and depth (p<0.001) of their crow’s feet wrinkles. Similarly, when the volunteers smiled,
there was an average decrease in crow’s feet wrinkle volume and depth of approximately 7% (p<0.05) and 8% (p<0.05) in just ten minutes, respectively (Figure 6). After 28 days, the ferment extract was able
to reduce crow’s feet wrinkle depth by up to 35% and 36% (when not smiling and when smiling) and volume by up to 26% and 35% (when not smiling and when smiling). Since smiling promotes wrinkles to
deepen, it was determined as well if this increase might be lessened. In just ten minutes, the active ingredient decreased this rise in wrinkle depth and volume by an average of 13% and 11%. In the forehead/frown area, the volunteers
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
Hidden wrinkles (smiling)
T0 min
T10 min
Wrinkles
Figure 6: Photos of the crow’s feet of a volunteer of 51 years old without smiling (top) and smiling (bottom). After 10 min, the wrinkle depth and volume were reduced by 11.3% and 18.1% when not smiling and by 31.0% and 15.8% when smiling
who applied the cream with the active ingredient had an improvement in wrinkle depth and volume of around 13% (p<0.01) and 11% (p<0.01) when not frowning and around 17% (p<0.01) and 15% (p<0.001) when frowning in ten minutes. Furthermore, the efficacy of the ferment
extract after 28 days showed a reduction in wrinkle volume of up to 26% and 51% and in wrinkle depth of up to 36% and 53% (without and with frowning). In 28 days, the average decrease in the deepening of wrinkles in the forehead/frown area when frowning was around 34% (p<0.1) and 29% (p<0.1) in wrinkle depth and volume, respectively.
Conclusion Innovation in the beauty industry can originate from a variety of sources, such as the mechanism of action, the origin of active ingredients, and the technology used to obtain them. Advances in these areas open the door to ingredients that are more efficient, sustainable and technologically advanced, embracing new horizons in cosmetic science. In this context, V/WA has broken down the
barriers of innovation as it is a fully vertically integrated ingredient derived from a newly identified Alteromonas species (Alteromonas lipotrueae) with a new holistic approach to expression wrinkles. The novel ingredient relaxes expression
wrinkles acting along the three steps of neuromuscular communication: neuritogenesis and neuronal migration, synaptic vesicles recycling and muscle contraction.
Moreover, the ferment extract showed to
smooth wrinkles on crow’s feet, the forehead, and even those challenging hidden wrinkles that are revealed to the world when smiling or frowning. From the discovery of a new microorganism to the development of a new active ingredient and the delivery of a novel approach for expression lines and neurocosmetics.
References 1. Gago JF, Viver T, Urdiain M, Pastor S, Kämpfer P, Ferreira E, Rossello-Mora R. Description of three new Alteromonas species Alteromonas antoniana sp. nov., Alteromonas lipotrueae sp. nov. and Alteromonas lipotrueiana sp. nov. isolated from marine environments, and proposal for reclassification of the genus Salinimonas as Alteromonas. Syst. Appl. Microbiol. 2021 Jul;44(4):126226
2. Meier T, Wallace BG. Formation of the neuromuscular junction: molecules and mechanisms. Bioessays. 1998 Oct;20(10):819-29
3. Winkle CC, Gupton SL. Membrane Trafficking in Neuronal Development: Ins and Outs of Neural Connectivity. Int. Rev. Cell. Mol. Biol. 2016;322:247-80
4. Milosevic I. Revisiting the Role of Clathrin- Mediated Endoytosis in Synaptic Vesicle Recycling. Front. Cell. Neurosci. 2018 Feb 6;12:27
5. Ruff RL. Endplate contributions to the safety factor for neuromuscular transmission. Muscle Nerve. 2011 Dec;44(6):854-61
6. Krans, J.
L.The Sliding Filament Theory of Muscle Contraction. Nature Education 3(9):66, 2010
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