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142 MULTIFUNCTIONALS


PGC: multifunctional preservation booster


Elias Pambou, Emma Cooban, Julianne Sortino-Smith, Leo Poorvin, Louise Reay, Philip Roebuck, Rounak Sawhney, Sam Collier, Samantha Thomas, Tom Pointon – Arxada


Arxada aims to solve the world’s toughest preservation challenges while ensuring a more sustainable tomorrow. As a chemical ingredient supplier to the beauty and personal care industries, it is Arxada’s responsibility to lead the development of safer and more eco-friendly products moving towards a greener future. To help realise this vision, Arxada offers


propylene glycol caprylate, a naturally derived, sustainable, multifunctional ingredient, that can boost preservation efficacy and product active performance. Increasing consumer awareness regarding


ingredients used in personal care products is pushing formulators toward multifunctional ingredients, with improved safety and sustainability profiles. propylene glycol caprylate is a naturally derived, multifunctional personal care ingredient that boosts the antimicrobial performance of a wide range of preservation ingredients while adding other functional benefits for formulators and consumers. Arxada’s mission is to provide customers with


the latest in milder, more sustainable preservation solutions and offer technical expertise to optimise their performance in formulations.


Preservation boosting Aqueous personal care products can support the growth of microorganisms and require the addition of ingredients, such as preservatives, to provide microbiological protection.1


Due to the


increased scrutiny of traditional preservatives and the shrinking pallet of safer preservation options, formulators are looking for continued innovations in the milder, more sustainable space. Reducing or replacing traditional


preservatives still requires the addition of actives and multifunctional ingredients to preserve a cosmetic formulation adequately. Multifunctional ingredients with preservation boosting or inherent efficacy have become increasingly popular alternatives to more traditional preservatives like those on regulated lists such as Annex V of the EU Cosmetics Products Regulation.1,2 First-generation multifunctional ingredients


are typically derived from petrochemical feedstocks such as caprylyl glycol (CapG) and ethylhexylglycerin (EHG). As the world looks to move away from its reliance on non- renewable resources, the need to develop more sustainable ingredients is clear. Propylene glycol caprylate (CAS: 31565- 12-5) is a naturally derived glycol ester with


PERSONAL CARE April 2024 H3 C O Propylene glycol caprylate Figure 1: Propylene glycol caprylate esterification reaction


co-emulsifier, humectant, and antimicrobial potentiation performance.3,4


Propylene glycol


caprylate is created from naturally derived propylene glycol (soybean) and caprylic acid (palm oil, RSPO mass-balanced) and is readily biodegradable to support a circular economy. The following are preservation-boosting benefits that propylene glycol caprylate can bring to personal care formulations: ■ Reduced cost-in-use preservation ■ Increase natural content of formulation (RCI)


■ Improved formulation characteristics and stability ■ Expansion of the efficacious pH range of organic acids ■ Increased broad-spectrum efficacy ■ Improved speed of kill Propylene glycol caprylate preservation


efficacy was evaluated using industrial standard methods (PCPC Microbiology guidelines, 2021), testing against a broad range of microbial species (Table 1).5


Broad-spectrum efficacy was www.personalcaremagazine.com H3 C OH Caprylic Acid Esterification


1,2-Propylene glycol OH


O O HO


HO


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