84 ANTI-AGEING Consumer opinion about retinol alternatives
Which anti-ageing cream has the highest efficacy?
4% 14% 32% 50% 50% 14% 36% 64% 9% 27%
Plant-derived retinol alternative + dermal delivery system
Plant-derived retinol alternative
Synthetic retinol No preference
Which anti-ageing cream is the safest?
Which anti-ageing cream would you prefer?
Figure 1: A plant-derived retinol alternative is preferred over synthetic retinol, especially in combination with a dermal penetration enhancer
Phospholipids – ideal partners for bakuchiol Phospholipids are among the body ’s own building blocks and are an essential part of our cell membranes. They are true skin care allrounders - highly biocompatible, completely biodegradable, and irritation-free. Phospholipids complement bakuchiol’s function in two ways. First, they facilitate bakuchiol penetration
to target skin layers and second, phospholipids are active ingredients themselves. The structural subclass of unsaturated phospholipids are mediators of skin delivery. They modify the fluidity of the lipid barrier, making it more permeable for cosmetic actives, increasing their bioavailability and efficacy. At the same time, unsaturated phospholipids
are active skin care ingredients that reduce the visible signs of skin ageing by triggering biochemical processes, including enhanced hyaluronic acid production, or diminished extracellular matrix degradation. Moreover, unsaturated phospholipids are
a source of unsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, which has a positive impact on inflammatory skin disorders, complementing the anti-blemish and anti-ageing activity of
A Instrumental assessment
50 40 30 20 10 0
** 12% 15%
Bakuchiol Control Cream
Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream
27%
80 60 40 20 0
other active ingredients. This makes unsaturated phospholipids ideal partners for bakuchiol as they promote bakuchiol’s efficacy, and at the same time, complement bakuchiol’s activity with skin-caring and anti-ageing benefits.6,7
Consumer opinion about retinol alternatives To understand the consumer’s view on retinol and retinol alternatives, we asked 22 female volunteers to rate their preferred anti-ageing ingredient among three different forms: (i) synthetic retinol, (ii) plant-derived retinol alternative or (iii) plant-derived retinol alternative + dermal penetration enhancer, in relation to safety, efficacy, and general preference in cosmetics. As a result, consumers prefer a plant-
derived retinol alternative over synthetic retinol, especially in combination with a dermal penetration enhancer (Figure 1).
Bakuchiol and phospholipids – the perfect team for treating blemished skin This in vivo study examined the effects of bakuchiol with and without the presence of
B
Expert evaluation **
*** 20% *** 32% 52% C Visual improvement of blemished skin
unsaturated phospholipids on blemished facial skin and gathered information about the volunteer’s perception of product efficacy. In a double blind, placebo-controlled,
randomized, in vivo study, 21 female volunteers with mild to severe blemished skin treated one hemiface with a 4% ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’ and the other side with a ‘Bakuchiol Control Cream’ containing equimolar amounts of bakuchiol for 42 days. Product efficacy was evaluated by instrumental assessment, clinical expert evaluation, and consumer self- assessment. As a result, the ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid
Cream’ significantly reduced sebum levels of blemished skin by 27% after 42 days of treatment, which is 12% better than the ‘Bakuchiol Control Cream’. The clinical expert evaluation found that the signs of blemished skin had significantly improved by 52% after 42 days of treatment, which is 20% better than the ‘Bakuchiol Control Cream’. The improvement of symptoms is illustrated in Figure 2C showing the hemiface treated with the ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’. In the consumer self-assessment, volunteers
observed that both the ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’ and the ‘Bakuchiol Control Cream’ are
Bakuchiol Control Cream
Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream
Figure 2: The ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’ reduces sebum levels and facial skin blemishes. A: Sebum levels were recorded with Sebumeter SM 815. B: The clinical expert evaluation was according to the Investigator Global Assessment (IGA)8
. C: Representative images show the facial half-side treated with
the 'Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream'. Data is presented as percent changes between day 0 and day 42. N = 21; Mean + SEM. Student’s t-test D0 versus D42 and between treatments; ** = p < 0.01; *** = p < 0.001
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Sebum Level (%)
Reduction of
Improvement (%)
Clinical Score
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