78 SKIN CARE
in the human body. Antioxidants in the human body neutralizing free radicals are divided into two main groups: antioxidant enzymes (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase) and non-enzymatic antioxidants (e.g., glutathione, ascorbic acid, tocopherol).11 ROS and RNS (superoxide anion radical (O2 O2
•), hydroxyl radical (•OH), singlet oxygen (1 hydrogen peroxide (H2
O2 ), ), nitric oxide (NO),
and peroxynitrite (ONOO-)) are also produced during intracellular metabolic processes. The composition of skin microbiota
associated with healthy skin is also affected by UV radiation and pollutants.12
The type of ROS
produced by UV rays depends on UV radiation energy. Based on the interaction of UV radiation wavelengths with biological materials, three types of UV radiation are known: UVA (400–315 nm), UVB (315–280 nm), and UVC (280–100 nm). UVA generates mostly 1
O2 UVB generates O2 and also O2 -• predominantly. As
mentioned above, the formation of ROS in the skin is affected by various pollutants, including gases such as ozone and particulate matter originating from fuel combustion containing polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH). Some PAH can induce strong oxidative stress under UVA exposure. Pollution can worsen some skin diseases, such as atopy or eczema. Data also report the correlation with the early occurrence of (photo)-ageing markers. In examining the protective effects of the
active plant cells against UVB-induced damage, the quantification of DNA in the comet tail is then assessed using a microscope equipped with an image analyser. The study revealed that active plant cells
exhibit a notable protective activity against the aggressions of UVB (150mJ/cm2
) on
reconstituted epidermis over a 24-hour period. Particularly noteworthy among these active ingredients are cactus nopal, commiphora, blackberry, edelweiss, evening primrose, and the red-flowered silk cotton tree. These botanical elements demonstrate a significant potential in shielding the skin from the harmful effects of UVB radiation, underscoring their valuable contribution to skin protection. When studying antioxidant effects, it is
essential to consider additional tests, such as the evaluation of the protective effect of the active plant cells after UV exposure concerning the total ROS activity (ROS + SOD/Catalase). These assessments provide a comprehensive understanding of the product’s impact on
UNTREATED CONTROL EPIDERMIS -•.
keratinocytes after UV exposure, specifically in terms of total ROS activity and the enzymatic activities of SOD and catalase. Through these tests, three active plant
cells stand out: peppermint, sequoia, and vitis flower. In the assessments, these specific plant cells demonstrate noteworthy properties in mitigating the effects of UV exposure on keratinocytes, as evidenced by their impact on total ROS activity, SOD, and catalase enzymatic activities.
The distinct characteristics of peppermint,
sequoia, and vitis flower plant cells highlight their potential as valuable ingredients in formulating cosmetic and personal care products with protective benefits against oxidative stress and UV-induced damage in skin care applications. Another essential antioxidant test conducted
to evaluate these botanical wonders is the lipid peroxidation test. Malondialdehyde (MDA is one of the final products of lipid peroxidation, originating from the oxidation of polyunsaturated fats within cell membranes. MDA, a small molecule generated during this oxidative process, serves as a reliable biomarker for assessing lipid peroxidation and oxidative stress in cells and tissues. The methodology involves incubating
keratinocytes treated with and without the studied product for 24 hours. Subsequently, the determination of malondialdehyde (MDA) is performed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). There are numerous examples of active plant
cells species that have demonstrated positive responses to lipid peroxidation, indicating their potential to protect against oxidation. To name just a few, in addition to those previously mentioned in this article, noteworthy examples include Asian ginseng, hardy orchid, vanilla, evening primrose, gardenia, ginkgo, rose root, Hibiscus syriacus ‘Bluebird’, four o’clock flower, pomegranate, and ginger. These botanicals display diverse properties in mitigating lipid peroxidation, underlining the rich spectrum of antioxidative capabilities found within active plant cells, making them valuable assets in skincare formulations.
Flavonoids’ impact on microorganisms and skin microbiota The human skin also hosts many micro- organisms, known as microbiota. This skin microbiota could represent a barrier between external threats and the epidermal barrier. These microbiotas are also connected with ageing and may be affected by exposure to UV radiation, which is related to immunosuppression induced by UV radiation.13 Among the cited optically active and isomeric flavonoids and stilbenes some of them favour what could be called a beneficial balance of microbiota. For example, Staphylococcus aureus microbiota should be inhibited to favour a beneficial balance skin microbiota. The flavonoids quercetin and kaempferol,
produced by Naolys active plant cells such as sage, are known to inhibit Staphylococcus aureus, which is one of the leading causes
TREATED EPIDERMIS WITH WHOLE ACTIVE PLANT CELLS FROM SAGE (1%)
-
60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Control
+17%
+20%
+25%
0.5%
1%
2.5%
Figure 1: Number of KI-67 labelled cells based on concentration of the whole active plant cells from sage at 0.5%, 1%, 2.5%.
Figure 2: Evaluation of the mitotic index through immunohistochemical staining of Ki-67, untreated and treated epidermis with whole active plant cells from Sage (0.5%, 1%, 2.5%)
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Number of labelled cells (KI-67)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154
