ANTI-AGEING
A perfect duo: bakuchiol and phospholipids
Bernd Walzel, Anja Herrmann, Beatrix Senti, Tamina Shahzad, Ulrike Bätz, Stefan Bänziger – Lipoid Kosmetik ABSTRACT
Bakuchiol has recently gained attention as a functional analog and natural alternative to topical retinoids. It was found to have retinol-like functionality sharing some of retinol’s anti-ageing, anti-acne, and hyperpigmentation properties, while having fewer adverse cutaneous side effects than retinol. Unsaturated phospholipids are ideal
Retinol, or vitamin A, is one of the most effective and most popular active ingredients in anti- ageing applications and for the treatment of blemished skin. The cosmetic effects of topically applied retinoids are based on (i) the promotion of keratinocyte proliferation, (ii) the promotion of collagen synthesis, (iii) the improvement of the epidermal barrier function, (iv) the inhibition of collagen degradation, (v) the reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and (vi) the inhibition of metalloproteinase activity.1 As one of oldest active ingredients in use,
retinol is well-known to consumers. In our 2023 consumer survey, more than 90% of participants said that retinol is one of the most powerful active ingredients for the treatment of skin blemishes and ageing skin (data not shown). Yet retinol has its disadvantages: From
a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers because of their proven instability (especially to sunlight), low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Cutaneous side effects of retinol are common and well documented - consumers often experience side effects like cutaneous erythema, pruritus, peeling, stinging, burning, or sensitivity.2 This is reflected in our 2023 consumer survey, where more than 75% of participants
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said that they are concerned about skin incompatibilities when using retinol (data not shown). Therefore, novel systems are being developed to overcome these limitations. One example is bakuchiol, a monoterpene
derived from the seeds of the small, subtropical medicinal herb Psoralea corylifolia, which has gained attention as a functional analog to topical retinoids. Bakuchiol is structurally different to retinol, but induces retinol-like gene expression in human skin. This includes genes involved in the cellular
uptake of endogenous retinol, the activation of retinol in the skin, and the production of extracellular matrix proteins that provide epidermal support and integrity. Thus, bakuchiol induces its own set of chemical pathways, but shares some of retinol’s anti-ageing, anti-acne, and hyperpigmentation properties.3,4,5 These molecular findings translate to clinical
outcomes with improvements in wrinkles, skin blemishes, and hyperpigmentation, with overall fewer adverse cutaneous side effects than retinol. This has been confirmed in several in vivo studies using bakuchiol as a retinol replacement. It is therefore not surprising that the number of new product launches with bakuchiol is raising.
partners for bakuchiol. They are versatile ingredients offering both technical and physiological benefits to high-end skincare products. As essential constituents of human cell membranes they are highly biocompatible ingredients with proven skin care benefits. In addition, they serve as penetration enhancers for active substances. Here we show that a combination of bakuchiol and unsaturated phospholipids (tradename BakuLipid®) offers retinol- like activity with superior performance over bakuchiol formulations without phospholipids, perfectly matching consumer expectations that seek more natural, more effective, and better tolerated products. BakuLipid is a combination of two active components – bakuchiol and unsaturated phospholipids for a twofold activity. Plant-based bakuchiol is a skin-friendly retinol alternative. Unsaturated phospholipids are natural penetration enhancers with rejuvenating effects. Combined, they form the perfect active for blemish-free and youthful skin.
According to a Mintel database search, the
number of new product launches with bakuchiol in the beauty and personal care category rose exponentially, with only 17 new launches in 2018 versus 275 new launches in 2022. This trend reflects the consumer preference for more natural and skin compatible ingredients.5 Still, bakuchiol has its challenges. Bakuchiol
is relatively new to cosmetics and bakuchiol formulations are still being optimized. One possible strategy is to improve epidermal penetration to increase the effective concentration in target skin layers or to combine bakuchiol with suitable substances that complement its efficacy.
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
83
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