98 EYE AREA CARE
Selective extraction of lipophilic metabolites The process developed by the team of plant chemists has two main goals: ■ To obtain a versatile ingredient, easy to formulate and usable in a wide range of applications, from skincare to makeup, and from emulsions to anhydrous formulas. ■ To collect triterpenic acids, which can maximize the bioactive effects on microcirculation and vascular permeability. Thomas Rinaldi, R&D engineer in plant
chemistry at Gattefossé, summarizes this phase of the research: “Using bio and chemo guidance, we screened a series of solvents, monitoring various parameters such as extractive performances, biological activity, environmental imprint and reproducibility. Our objective was to obtain a rationalized,
energy-sparing process without compromising on efficacy. Supercritical CO2
exhibits a
unique and sharp affinity for extracting apolar compounds along with a controlled environmental impact. This solvent quickly became our first choice”. The association of supercritical CO2
Untreated CO2
/Et0H extract of Hippophae rhamnoides-0.02%
Basement membrane
Endothelial cells
Dermis
Figure 4: Visualization of the integrity of the capillary structure through laminin expression analysis in a 3D vascularized dermis model stimulated with TNF-a
Beyond, phytosterols (mainly stigmasterol with
ethanol as a co-solvent has even increased the spectrum of phyto-molecules obtained threefold. This process is non-toxic, works well at low temperatures, and preserves sensitive molecules. It was the perfect one to guarantee extraction performance, quality, security, and energy efficiency, aligning with Gattefossé’s industrial standards and CSR commitments. Rinaldi continues: “We reach a specific
polarity with this association of solvents which contributes to the richness in secondary metabolites and somehow the uniqueness of the final active composition”. Following extraction, solvents are removed,
and the resulting dry material is solubilized in a biobased oily compound, which ensures stability and optimal formulation. This active is titrated in triterpenoid acids (ursolic, oleanolic, and maslinic acids) which operate as quality and efficacy tracers.
BEFORE
and ß-sitosterol) are present in significant quantities in the active. They make a complementary contribution to the fight against inflammation-induced vascular permeability.14-16
Complementary strategies to fight signs of fatigue The complex nature of dark circles and puffiness poses a challenge for testing active ingredients in vitro. The necessity to act at several levels of the signaling cascade makes evaluation more complex. Gattefossé’s skin biology team set up a
comprehensive study program to cover the entire pathway leading to the appearance of dark circles and puffiness. To be as close as possible to the physiological reality, they worked on endothelial cells issued from biopsies. “Introducing endothelial cells into our
laboratory was a real challenge. They were a completely new cell type for us. We had to
AFTER
learn everything about them: evaluate the optimal culture media or seeding densities, monitor their proliferation capacities, and establish the kinetics of the tests and the control conditions,” says Lorion. “Moreover, our cells are primary cells
extracted from biopsies, not from cells’ lines: they must be handled with greater care but are also closer to physiological reality.” Based on these models, the active
ingredient showed remarkable abilities to secure microcirculation and reinforce the endothelial barrier function. It was tested on a monolayer culture of human dermal microvascular endothelial cells. These cells were stressed with TNF-a. The active decreased the expression of the
vascular adhesion molecule VCAM-1 by 82%. The direct consequence is the reduction by 35% of the number of leucocytes adhering to the membrane of endothelial cells (Figure 3). Doing so, the ingredient prevents white blood cells from escaping into the extracellular space. The endothelial barrier function is
effectively restored, as shown by the measurement of the trans-endothelial electrical resistance (TEER). The active significantly improved this parameter by 111% compared to untreated cells, confirming the improvement in vascular impermeability. Those results were illustrated in a 3D
vascularized dermis model challenged with TNF-a. The active was able to preserve the well-organized tubular structure of capillaries and consequently the vascular integrity and skin microcirculation (Figure 4). Furthermore, the treatment of dark circles
requires extra attention. Data confirm that the active promotes the degradation of hemoglobin, whose accumulation is a key contributor to under-eye hyperpigmentation. Indeed, the ingredient increases HMOX-1
Vol. 21 Figure 5: Before/after pictures - appearance of dark circles PERSONAL CARE April 2024
gene expression by 119%, an enzyme involved in the proper conversion of hemoglobin into bilirubin (yellow pigment). It also chelates ferrous ions, which may help to limit oxidation of hemoglobin and ROS production.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
PLACEBO
CO2
OF HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES-2%
/Et0H EXTRACT
Laminin / CD31 / Nuclei
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