FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
TABLE 2: BOUNCING LIP BALM (INTERNAL REF.: RFGG-02.01-1223), A COLD-PROCESSED JELLO-LIKE BALM FOR DRY LIPS.
Phase Ingredients A Jojoba Oil Castor Oil
BergaCare FG Olive BergaCare FG Gel
Cosphaderm T70 non-GMO ECO
Honey INCI
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Ricinus Communis (Castor Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic acid, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Aroma
Procedure: Weigh in all raw materials. Mix them at 11000 rpm for 9 min. Suppliers: 1.Henry Lamotte 2. Berg+Schmidt 3. Cosphatec GmbH 4. OlbrechtAromen
As mentioned above, the mode of application is important but also other sensory parameters are key i.e. the body of a product. With the term ‘body’, we describe the amount
of product which remains between the fingers after dipping into the jar forming a cushion. The below shown O/W emulsion has been formulated with 3% hydrogenated lecithin as natural standalone emulsifier as well as 3% of the thickening agent in a total oil phase of around 28%. Here, the adding of the thickener is
responsible for jellifying the oil phase and providing body to the whole formulation. Further sensory aspects like the skin after feel are enhanced e.g. rich, but non-tacky.
Seeking new formulation concepts The olive and castor-based oil thickener blend has already shown to be very compatible with commonly used cosmetic raw materials and helps to overcome several manufacturing challenges due to its cold processability and thickening stability also at elevated temperatures. Yet there is more when looking at new
natural formulation types. As the thickener is compatible also with sodium cocoyl isethionate, it can carry the surfactant and create oil-gel- to-milk cleansing products. For hair tips fluids or body oils with a longer playtime, the pure thickened oil with 5% thickener is a suitable formulation. purely thickened oil with 5% of the thickener is a suitable formulation for hair tips
Suppliers w/w (%) 1 1
10.0 4.6
2 2
3 4
10.0 75.0
0.2 0.2
53
fluids or body oils with a longer playtime. A more creative and playful concept is the bouncing lip balm which can be applied on dry lips or to prepare the lips for further lipstick. The lip balm uses a higher concentration of the thickener in combination with other vegetable oils and antioxidants leading to the bouncy texture.
Conclusion This article discusses the different possibilities of oil thickening in cold process. Formulators can already choose between a number of ingredients existing on the market for cosmetic ingredients and which generate similar results by having a different mode of action. By using the blend mixture of olive squalane,
hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate and the copolymer of hydrogenated castor oil with sebacic acid the final product will show a well-jellified, transparent oil-gel allowing for new, trending products.
PC
References 1. Praetorius S, Schößer B. Bentonithandbuch Ringspaltschmierung für den Rohrvortrieb Seite 9
2. Falbe J, Regitz M. RÖMPP Chemie Lexikon. H-L Seite 1750
3. Fraunhofer. Grundlagen zu Polymeren und Kunststoff.
www.umsicht.fraunhofer.de/de/ ueber-fraunhofer-umsicht/nachhaltigkeit/ nationale-informationsstelle-nachhaltige- kunststoffe/polymere-kunststoff/grundlagen. html
www.personalcaremagazine.com
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154
