EYE AREA CARE
97
H O H HO H
(Triterpenoid, pentacyclic triterpenoid acid) CAS 77-52-1, C30
Ursolic acid H48
O3 , MW 456.7 HO H
(Triterpenoid, pentacyclic triterpenoid acid) CAS 508-02-1, C30
Oleanolic acid H48
O3 , MW 456.7 H HO H
(Triterpenoid, pentacyclic triterpenoid acid) CAS 4373-41-5, C30
Maslinic acid H48
O4 , MW 472.7
OH H O
OH H HO O H
OH
Figure 2: Three triterpenes of interest to improve microcirculation Indeed, under inflammatory conditions,
the secretion of pro-inflammatory mediators stimulates the endothelial cells and activates adhesion receptors, such as VCAM-1. White blood cells adhere to the endothelial cell membrane, rolling over it until they leak upon the opening in tight junctions. Concurrently, smaller-sized red blood cells passively escape through the same openings (Figure 1). In the very thin and reactive sub-ocular
region, microcirculation dysfunctions induced by stressors such as UV rays, pollution, and fatigue are particularly visible. This extravasation leads to excessive permeability, characterized by two symptoms: ■ The leakage of white blood cells initiates the accumulation of plasma, also known as edema, or more commonly puffiness. ■ Hemoglobin accumulates in the under-eye region, where its degradation produces a toxic red-pigmented by-product called free heme. The released ferrous molecules oxidize and produce ROS, subsequently increasing skin oxidation and inflammation. This phenomenon, clinically evident through skin transparency, is commonly referred to as dark circles.
Untreated Cross-section view
“Despite similar locations on the face, dark
circles and puffiness cannot be attributed to one single driver, making them difficult to address from a cosmetic point of view,” says Lorion. “This multifactorial nature requires comprehensive and wide-ranging care. In our research, we were particularly attentive to addressing this complex physiopathology”.
A molecular approach to plant extraction Experts in plant chemistry have looked for molecules in the plant kingdom that would be capable of addressing a dual objective: fight the excessive vascular permeability induced by inflammation and regulate the hyperpigmentation triggered by hemoglobin accumulation in the sub-ocular area. Triterpene compounds can be found in
many plants, ranging from edible vegetables and fruits to traditional medicinal herbs. They are the subject of numerous scientific studies that demonstrate their role as health- supporting molecules. Examples include anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, cardio, or neuroprotective activities.
CO2
/Et0H extract of Hippophae rhamnoides-0.025%
More specifically, ursolic acid, maslinic acid, and oleanolic acid (Figure 2) are known for their direct effects on skin microcirculation and endothelial barrier function by reducing inflammation-induced vascular permeability.4-6 Interestingly, these three molecules also
demonstrate potential in breaking down the red pigment associated with dark circles, through the stimulation of HMOX-1. Their ability to inhibit oxidative damage, particularly the production of ROS that accumulates in the inflamed sub-ocular zone, has been well-documented.7-10 The presence of triterpenoid acids has been described in the leaves of Hippophae rhamnoides.11 Commonly known as sea buckthorn, this
Top view
tree is native to the cold-temperate regions of Europe and Asia. It holds edible intense orange berries and is of high value for two reasons: ■ Remarkable phytochemical richness. A nutritional powerhouse containing 30 times more vitamin C than an orange, the berries are widely used in food or herbal medicine. Their content in phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins, and organic acids give the plant impressive anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. In the less commonly used leaves, beyond the abundance of triterpenes, sterols, and tocopherols also convey biological potential.12 ■ Moreover, this tree is also an ecological ally. Its high resilience to harsh climates, its strong root system, and fast-growing capabilities make it particularly adapted to the restoration of desertified ecosystems.13 Gattefossé took an interest in the under-
utilized sea buckthorn’s leaves. Work to secure the supply of the plant has taken the company in Quebec, Canada, in a family-owned orchard dedicated to its organic cultivation and the transformation of berries into food items. Every September, the fruit-bearing
Figure 3: Counting of adherent leukocytes in monolayer cultures of human dermal microvascular endothelial cells stressed with TNF-a
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branches are manually cut, allowing for tree pruning. The leaves are separated from the fruits which will be transformed into juice, sorbets, or jams. Gattefossé recovers the leaves, upcycling this valuable material.
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
PBMC / Endothelial cells
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