138 NATURALS A B C
Control D p<0.05 Treated with Gluca Moist 5.10% 4.83% 4.55% 4.28% Control Contol (Water) Figure 5: Hair care benefits
improved shininess (Figure 5C). Damaged hair was shampooed and towel-dried, then sprayed ten times with 1% torula yeast polysaccharide aqueous solution on the entire hair bundle, dried completely with a hair dryer, and left to acclimate. Approximately 0.3 g of treated hair was cut and the secondary transpiration moisture content was measured using an infrared moisture meter. The results showed that the secondary
transpiration moisture content was significantly higher in hair sprayed with torula yeast polysaccharide solution than in hair treated with water alone, indicating that the torula yeast polysaccharide application has a moisture retention effect on hair (Figure 5D).
Further applications Because of its high moisturizing function, the torula yeast polysaccharide can be used in skin care cosmetics in general, but it can also be used in more interesting ways. The first is its inclusion in cosmetics for PM2.5 prevention. After the torula yeast polysaccharide aqueous solution was applied to the silicone
A
artificial skin, powder imitating PM2.5 was applied and then washed off. As a result, the powder was washed away from the area where the torula yeast polysaccharide was applied, leaving almost no powder residue (Figure 6A). This was thought to be due to the torula
yeast polysaccharide forming a mesh-like structure on the skin (Figure 6B). In addition, this mesh structure can be expected to feel a lift-up effect, and can be used in cosmetics that not only moisturize and improve texture, but also provide air pollution prevention and a lift-up effect.
Key points on formulation design The recommended concentration of the torula yeast polysaccharide in cosmetics is 1%. Although it can be put directly into water, it is more convenient to pre-disperse it in a polyol such as BG and then add water. The torula yeast polysaccharide contains
insoluble and water-soluble components, so the aqueous solution has a slightly cloudy appearance and does not have the viscosity of polysaccharides such as xanthan gum and
B
hyaluronic acid. For this reason, there is almost no
problem in the case of viscous formulations such as creams and gels, but in the case of lotions that do not add viscosity, the torula yeast polysaccharide may settle depending on the concentration of the torula yeast polysaccharide to be blended, the presence of salt etc. In addition, a decrease in viscosity was
observed when the torula yeast polysaccharide was added to aqueous solutions of Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer and Carbopol 980 Polymer, which are commonly used as thickening agents. On the other hand, when combined
with Pemulen® TR-2 Polymeric Emulsifier aqueous solution, viscosity slightly tends to increase. There is usually no problem with emulsification at normal temperatures and times, but because it is a naturally produced polysaccharide, it may turn yellow if heated for a long time.
Conclusion Gluca Moist product is the world’s first complex polysaccharide derived from torula yeast cell wall, which was upcycled from yeast after seasoning production using proprietary technology.
The unique moisturizing mechanism of the
complex polysaccharide with hydrophilic and hydrophobic domains has been confirmed to improve skin texture, and is expected to be used in a wide range of cosmetic products, such as PM2.5 countermeasures and hair care products.
Gluca Moist 4.00% Gluca Moist Control
Gluca Moist
PC No application 1% Gluca Moist Figure 6: Testing of Gluca Moist for potential use in cosmetics for PM2.5 prevention PERSONAL CARE April 2024
Reference 1. Sousa-Silva M, Vieira D, Soares P, Casal M, Soares-Silva I. Expanding the Knowledge on the Skillful Yeast Cyberlindnera jadinii. Journal of Fungi. 2021, 7(1), 36
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Secondary transpiration moisture content (%)
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