SKIN CARE


77


Stereoisomeric flavonoids from active plant cells


Anne-Laure Larrivière, Rachid Anane – Naolys


The skin is the largest organ in the human body and regulates many of its characteristics, such as temperature and water content. It also plays a protective role against external factors such as mechanical injury, UVA and UVB radiation, chemicals, and microbial infection. For these reasons, it is highly critical to


maintain healthy skin and prevent skin disorders or dysbacteriosis and oxidative stress disorders. A very large variety of plants can provide the necessary stilbenes and flavonoids to help prevent skin disorders, establish the right natural balance and maintain physical skin integrity. Naolys active plant cells are obtained from


plant cell dedifferentiation and ultraviolet elicitation. This technology can provide similar stilbenes and flavonoids as found in any plant species. The stereoisomer equivalents of the bioactive ingredients, i.e. the cell metabolites are produced by the active plant cells. This very elaborate chemical synthesis is beyond most chemist’s abilities. More specifically, the isomeric stilbene


compounds such as Resveratrol, and most importantly, the optical isomer E-ε-Viniferin are present in active plant cells such as Vitis vinifera.1


Also, isomeric flavonoid equivalents


such as the flavones Apigenin, Luteolin, and the flavonols Fisetin, Myricetin, Kaempferol and Quercetin, and finally the flavanol (catechin), an optical isomer, (-)epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), are produced by the active plant cells of Theobroma cacao, Camellia sinensis, Argania spinosa, Punica granatum, Sequoia sempervirens, and Malus domestica to name a few.


These isomeric bioactive ingredients have


gained attention for their antioxidant, anti- inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties and therefore are likely to change the skin microbiome and skin protection ability with regard to pollution agents and more specifically UV radiation. As mentioned, the skin is particularly vulnerable to damage by frequent exposure to environmental factors such as air pollution, tobacco smoke, nutrition and even misuse of personal care products.2


Stereoisomeric bioactive ingredients Phytochemicals are a large and diverse group of chemicals.3


subgroups according to their chemical structure and functional properties,4


They are divided into groups and namely carotenoids,


phenolics, nitrogen-containing compounds, and organosulfur compounds.5


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Of those mentioned, phenolics belong to the most studied group of phytochemicals.6 Phenolic compounds are reducing agents, and all of them act as powerful antioxidants, playing important roles through different mechanisms such as the modulation of the activity of antioxidant enzymes, chelation of metal ions (Fe, Cu, and others), and anti-inflammatory reactions.7,8 The optically active flavonol, (-)


epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), is a type of catechin.9


It is one of the major bioactive


compounds found in green tea. Hence, green tea active plant cells contain several catechins, with EGCG being the most active for UV protection.10


Skin proliferation and differentiation Human skin permeability is based on the quality and quantity of lamellar lipid domains located between the corneocytes (stratum corneum). Fatty acids produced endogenously are also found in the lipid between the corneocyte layers and in the so-called hydrolipidic film on the skin’s surface. These biomolecules are critical contributors


to the structure–function relationship of the skin’s epidermis. The epidermis is a renewing layer in which basal keratinocytes (from stratum basal) are transformed into corneocytes (stratum corneum) in a process that takes approximately 30 days.


Thanks to their intricate composition, with a special emphasis on phytoalexins such as polyphenols, a multitude of active plant cells have demonstrated significant efficacy in fostering cellular proliferation and promoting epidermal differentiation through rigorous in- vitro testing. The treated epidermis undergoes meticulous immunohistochemical processing, where staining with the DAB chromogen reveals the KI-67 nuclear sites within the actively proliferating cell fraction. Simultaneously, a qualitative assessment of filaggrin labelling after immunohistochemical treatment is conducted through microscopic observation. Active plant cells, resonating particularly


well with the aforementioned testing methods, include iris, Chinese hibiscus, Egyptian blue lily, Indian jasmine and many more. These cells, sourced from a diverse botanical ensemble, have been identified as pivotal contributors to the observed effects. Each active plant cell, with its distinctive


profile, synergistically enhances cellular proliferation and epidermal differentiation, thereby contributing significantly to the regeneration of the epidermis in skincare. Therefore, active plant cells contribute to the skin’s protection against external factors.


Oxidative stress due to pollution Flavonoids are natural plant extracts belonging to powerful exogenous antioxidants, and are widely used in cosmetics, always in mixtures containing aglycones and lipophilic glycosides. Such a chemical structure increases their antioxidant properties and allows them to scavenge almost all types of free radicals. Flavonoids inhibit various ROS formation factors, thus preventing skin ageing.10 As mentioned, the skin is a very important


organ, representing the barrier, or first interface, between the human body and its environment. It protects the human body against physical and chemical effects and injuries. Exposure of the skin to UV radiation, pollutants, and allergens leads to the production of free radicals in the skin and the formation of oxidation stress, promoting and developing a variety of skin diseases, and causing changes in skin homogeneity, sagging, wrinkling, roughness and dryness. Oxidative stress is widely known as an


imbalance between the accumulation of free radicals/oxidants and the antioxidant system


April 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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