48 MANUFACTURE Finally, using two mixing vessels to create
one formulation significantly increases the wastage incurred throughout the process: the product will be left around the sides of two vessels rather than one, and this must be incorporated into the cost of making the bulk. While some formulations require a two-pot
method (such as SPF emulsions), formulators are encouraged to use a one-pot method wherever possible to achieve efficiencies on scale and, therefore, reduce costs.
Packaging options and their challenges Once you have developed your next bestseller and ensured the formulation is robust enough to survive the scale-up process, equal consideration should be given to the componentry it will be sold in. Certain packaging options can create headaches in the filling environment and could lead to increased costs to fill successfully. In this section we will look at the different packaging options available to brands, the filling challenges they present, and how these challenges can be overcome.
Decorative finishes Frosted glass is a popular, high-end option that helps create a luxurious, expensive look for a finished product. While hand-filling a frosted glass bottle or jar for a photo shoot or promotion does not pose any problems in development, filling these types of components on a high- speed production line can cause quality issues. The frosted finish can scuff against the
guide rails as it travels down the production line, causing unsightly damage to the product. To overcome this, plastic pucks can hold the components in place and prevent the frosted finish from contacting surfaces that could cause it to scuff. Pucks require significant investment, as they
are specifically moulded to each component, so this is an essential consideration in the development process. Using pucks enables factories to maintain a high filling speed and achieve the greatest efficiencies in production; for large volume orders, the cost of the pucks can be offset against the higher filling rate. Similar to frosted finishes on glass, some plastic packaging options have a high-end matte finish, which is also highly susceptible to scuffing. As well as protecting the packaging while it is being filled, consideration should be given to how it could be damaged once it has left the factory and is transported to the end user. Transit trials are conducted to determine how
the packaging will perform, either in bulk transit from warehouse to warehouse or in single units as sold to customers. Products shipped in bulk may rub against each other in transit. For matte finishes, the vibrations during
transit (either against each other or against external cardboard packaging) could cause scuff marks. Products should be packed with minimal space between them or with dividers separating products to avoid direct contact. This will help to minimise the movements experienced during in transit and reduce the potential for the finish to be scuffed.
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
Figure 4: Consideration should be given to how energy input from lab homogenisers can be replicated in large scale mixing equipment
Another aspect susceptible to scuffing is
the closure used on products, such as caps and pumps. On automated production lines, caps are tightened as they travel between belts moving in opposite directions. If too much force is applied when tightening the caps, the sides can scuff; this is especially obvious if they have a glossy finish and the gloss is removed. There is a delicate balance between
ensuring closures are tightened enough that they do not leak and do not ‘back off’ to come loose during transit, but do not cause damage to the overall finish. The first samples produced on-line can be
stress-tested in a vacuum chamber, where they are subjected to 0.4 bars of pressure, for instance, for ten minutes. This is a rigorous but quick test to ensure the caps are tight enough and the product will not leak during transit, to ensure the finished product reaches the end user intact.
Trouble with tubes Another popular presentation option is tubes, due to their versatile nature and ability to dispense cosmetic products without allowing contamination from the user. Tubes are usually filled through the top opening, then heated jaws clamp down on the material to seal the opening and trim the excess. Issues arise when sealing tubes with specific product viscosities. Water-thin liquids or hot fill balms risk splashing up into the seal area when filled. If the product contaminates this area, the tube cannot be sealed effectively, causing it to pop open and leak in transit. Formulations may be amended to aid filling;
for example, hot fill balms may be filled at the lowest temperature possible so the product has a greater viscosity, and is therefore less likely to splash onto the sides (providing the fill temperature does not affect the final product finish or causes it to set too soft). For some products, however, the viscosity
cannot be altered, such as water-thin liquids presented in tubes with spray pumps. In these cases the filling speed must be reduced to
ensure the bulk does not splash up when it is filled into the tube. This would ultimately reduce the run rate and lead to increased costs, so it is crucial to match the componentry to the product format early on in the development process if you wish to keep costs to a minimum.
Aluminium issues Aluminium packaging, while often viewed as more environmentally friendly, poses a problem in production due to its susceptibility to be dented. This can be overcome by packing filled units into cartons immediately; otherwise, if they are bulk-packed, dents are unavoidable and a tolerance must be agreed between the manufacturer and customer ahead of production. Extra care must be taken when sending aluminium bottles down a production line to minimise dents, and cap torques must be set accordingly to ensure aluminium caps do not sustain unreasonable denting.
Conclusion To summarise, the choices made during the development of a new product can heavily influence the scale-up process and impact it’s likelihood of success. Formulations can be safeguarded in a
number of ways, such as by including certain materials under a 1% inclusion level to allow them to be tweaked during production without affecting the order of the INCI list. Consideration should be given to the costs
incurred during large-scale production, and formulation and packaging choices should be made to reduce these wherever possible. These include using efficient one-pot methods, utilising cold process materials to minimise energy usage, and selecting packaging options which can be filled easily on high-speed production lines. By formulating with large scale
considerations at the forefront of the development process, the scale-up process can be made a simple success.
PC
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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